Astral manoeuvres in the dark — magical stargazing in the Northern Cape

In a world where much of its land mass suffers to some degree from light pollution, a clear view of the cosmos is an almost priceless commodity.

The term for travellers who roam the globe looking for good stargazing spots is astro-tourism. With their feet firmly planted on the Earth, astro-tourists fix their focus on the planets and constellations above. Gazing up at a starlit sky is an experience in wellness and education, especially when you’re in the hands of a veteran star guide.

The polluted northern skies of Eurasia and North America obscure the stars, whereas rural African skies are far less light-polluted.

The Northern Cape is sparsely populated by humans, and its towns are far apart. Spanning more than 360,000km2, it’s South Africa’s largest province but also its least populated, with fewer than 1.3 million people scattered across small towns and vast farms. This means minimal light pollution, a rarity in our electrified world. Winter skies are the clearest when the air is chilly and crisp, the atmosphere is stable and astronomical conditions are perfect.

Stargazing Central in the Northern Cape is around Sutherland, home of the SALT (Southern African Large Telescope) observatory. It is managed by the South African Astronomical Observatory.

The astro-domes, which are “no-light” research facilities, can only be approached by groups of visitors during daylight hours, at booked times. Trained guides will take you on a tour of the visitor centre and selected large telescopes.

On a clear night, however, you should be at the visitor centre looking through a telescope under the guidance of a dedicated SALT employee. 

The town of Sutherland prides itself on this astro-identity. Private individuals offer year-round, 90-minute stargazing sessions, using high-quality telescopes and advanced software. But there are other magnificent “star spots” in the Northern Cape.

The site of the Square Kilometre Array (SKA) radio astronomy complex is vast and quiet, and the science being done there is cutting edge. The nearest town to SKA is Carnarvon, and the best way to book for an upcoming tour of the site is to look out for announcements on their official website.

About 50km out of Carnarvon is Stuurmansfontein Guest Farm, which offers an authentic settler corbelled house experience. It also offers the clear night skies, and guests often find themselves in outside camp chairs after dinner, with house lamps off and skies shining like a gigantic Christmas light display from horizon to horizon.

The Tankwa Desert (including its national park) is also one of the finest destinations for astro-tourism.

The !Ae!Hai Kalahari Heritage Park, the ancestral home of the ǂKhomani San and Mier communities, has just been declared an International Dark Sky Sanctuary. It is known to be one of the world’s darkest places and carries the official recognition of the International Dark Sky Association.

“Astro-tourism has been identified as a particular growth area within the Northern Cape Province, South Africa where the geography, climate and existence of limited infrastructure provide an ideal environment for astronomy,” said Terance Fife, chairperson of the Joint Management Board of the !Ae!Hai Kalahari Heritage Park.

The designation is also a perfect fit for the culture of the area’s first inhabitants, who have an historically significant tie to the skies of the universe.

DarkSky International states its principles of Responsible Astro-tourism thus:

• Use light responsibly: “Adopt DarkSky’s Responsible Outdoor Light At Night (ROLAN) principles to safeguard the nighttime environment while enhancing visual safety. Ensure outdoor lighting is purposeful, targeted, low-level, controlled and warm-coloured;
• Protect the natural environment: Ensure tourism activities and operations do not disrupt wildlife or the natural environment. With 69% of mammals being nocturnal, many species rely on natural darkness for survival;
• Support the wellbeing of residents: Consider the needs and activities of local residents, aiming to enhance their experience of the nighttime environment while minimising any negative impacts on the community;
• Honour local and First People cultures: Respectfully and collaboratively integrate local and First People, their traditions and their knowledge, where possible, with free, prior and informed consent, recognising their cultural significance and ensuring sensitivity in its application;
• Adhere to local regulations: Comply with all relevant local regulations in the areas where you operate, ensuring responsible and legal practices. Support and promote regulations protecting natural darkness, ensuring future generations enjoy the night sky;
• Foster sustainable economic growth: Contribute to the local economy by generating meaningful direct and indirect economic benefits for local people and communities.”

Know before you go

Bring warm clothing. Sutherland is known as South Africa’s coldest town, and when the sun goes down, temperatures drop sharply, even in summer. The Kalahari can also be icy in winter, as can the areas around Carnarvon. 

South Africa has a grandstand view of the Milky Way and two smaller galaxies not seen in the northern hemisphere: the Small and Large Magellanic Clouds. Look out for the Southern Cross, Orion’s Belt and the Jewel Box star cluster. DM

For an insider’s view on life in the South African Heartland, get the Karoo Quartet set of books (Karoo Roads I-IV with black and white photographs) for only R960, including taxes and courier costs in South Africa. For more details, contact Julie at julie@karoospace.co.za