Every Sunday morning, before the sun has fully climbed over the Johannesburg skyline, the air in a small section of Fietas (the suburbs of Pageview and Vrededorp) begins to change. The sharp, polluted odour of the city is replaced by something warm, sweet and nostalgic — the aroma of fresh Cape Malay koesisters.
At the heart of this sensory transformation is Yola Minnaar. A former butchery owner from the Eastern Cape who moved to Fietas in 2015, Minnaar has become more than just the neighbourhood baker; she is the community’s unofficial matriarch.
Alongside her daughter, Raeesah Haet, Minnaar begins her weekly marathon in the early hours. Together, they prepare roughly 70 dozen koesisters — those iconic, oblong delights of spiced dough, simmered in hot syrup and dusted with snowy coconut.
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The demand is huge, and by midday, the trays are usually empty. While her neighbours make up the core of her clientele, Minnaar’s reputation has bypassed the local traffic. Customers from as far as Sandton frequently dispatch Ubers across town to collect a box of her famous treats. Her kitchen is a gallery of South African heritage, featuring golden milk tarts, vibrant red cakes, and jam-filled Hertzoggies (small, cup-like tartlets with a buttery pastry base, a layer of apricot jam and a coconut meringue topping).
However, Minnaar’s impact on Fietas isn’t limited to confectionery. In a neighbourhood where dry taps and dark power grids are a frequent reality, she has emerged as a fierce community activist.
“If I win, my community wins too. Even though I don’t make a fortune from my koesisters, every little bit I earn is used to uplift my community or to make life a little easier for the families around me,” said Minnaar.
She is a constant voice advocating for access to water and electricity. But she doesn't just talk, she provides. On her property stands a JoJo tank that is a lifeline for residents when municipal water fails. Whether it’s a cup of water for a thirsty neighbour or a daily meal for the hungry, Minnaar’s doors remain as open as her heart.
She also takes part in charity work — distributing food parcels to her community.
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“Some of the biggest challenges facing the Fietas community are financial hardship, unemployment, lack of infrastructure to keep our kids busy. Drugs are a problem, especially for single parents, and there are also families who are struggling to provide for their children.
“I know this challenge personally. I understand what it feels like to struggle alone with your children, to have them look at you for answers, and not always have the means to give them everything you wish you could. That lived experience is what motivated me to get involved,” she said. DM
This story was produced by Our City News, a non-profit newsroom that serves the people of Johannesburg
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Yola Minnaar, the koesister queen of Fietas. (Photo: Heather Mason / Our City News)