Creatures of the wild kind like their life in Hoedspruit too

Long before Hoedspruit’s cafés start grinding coffee and the first diesel bakkies rumble down the streets, the town awakens in quiet, deliberate ways.

The Lowveld light stretches over the Drakensberg foothills, turning the mountains pink and gold, while the calls of francolins echo through the bush. For those who live here, the town belongs first to nature, and only then to its people.

Hoedspruit, located along the bustling R40 road that leads to, among other places, the Orpen Gate of the Kruger National Park, is one of those “if you blink you miss it” hamlets. It falls under the Maruleng Municipality, which derives its name from the marula trees that grow in abundance in the area. Its heartbeat is defined best by the municipality’s slogan – wildlife haven.

Residents have learnt to move with the rhythm of the town. Shopkeepers lift roller doors in the early hours and roadside stalls are stacked with fruit crates under the warming sun.

The railway station, a relic of the old Selati line that once hauled gold and timber, remains a key landmark. Although trains no longer pass through, the red-brick building still draws tourists and locals alike.

“This building,” says resident and town storyteller Christine du Preez, “once shook like a drum when the locomotives thundered through. But the stories, those are louder than any train.”

Walking the main street, the town’s mix of commerce and community becomes evident. Along the road, a variety of artists display different artworks, ranging from sculptures to beads and paintings. You will be greeted with the friendliest smiles, which will make you feel welcome, and oh, watch out for that hyena, warthog or leopard that wants the “feel” of the town.

Across the road, a café hums with conversation. Pilots from the game reserves sip cappuccinos next to backpackers in sunhats, discussing everything from conservation issues to rugby scores. Locals share sightings of leopards on the outskirts of town and debate farm prices. In Hoedspruit, stories, both factual and folkloric, bind the community together.

Architecture in Hoedspruit reflects both tradition and modernity. Along Kampersrus Road, eco-lodges with glass walls stand alongside mud-brick houses that honour local designs.

By midday, the heat settles heavily. Roadside restaurants offer local cuisine: fresh trout from nearby mountain streams, pap and chakalaka, and Amarula cheesecake, reportedly so good it has moved visiting gourmets to tears. Conversations around the tables range from upcoming game drives to water supply concerns and school sports.

Hoedspruit’s proximity to wildlife is a defining feature. Vervet monkeys dash across rooftops, and hornbills inspect passers-by with audacious curiosity. For residents, such encounters are part of daily life; for tourists, they are a glimpse of the untamed bush.

As the day fades, the town slows. Sitting on a bench at the station, unofficial town historian Corne Havenga reflects: “This town survives because its people understand that we are guests here. Nature leads, and we follow.”

Even as the sun dips behind the Drakensberg foothills, Hoedspruit exudes a sense of calm vitality. It is a town where stories endure, nature and community exist in quiet harmony, and life unfolds at a pace set by the rhythms of the bush.

Life in Hoedspruit carries a mix of warmth and frustration, depending on where you stand and what you notice on an ordinary day. Walk through town, and noticeboards immediately catch the eye, layered with posters for poetry nights, farmers’ markets and the occasional community meeting. They tell their own story of a place where people still bother to show up for things.

It’s not unusual to see the councillor in town greeting people at a restaurant or stopping for a quick chat in the shops, something residents say makes the town feel a little smaller in a good way.

Local spots like Nog ’n Doring, whether you think of it as a brewery, distillery or just a proudly homegrown hangout, give the town a kind of character that can’t be manufactured. Even the second-hand bookstore, tucked between more modern storefronts, seems to attract its own loyal crowd.

But for all its charm, Hoedspruit has its share of troubles. The increasing number of “No Loitering” signs has sparked irritation among those who feel the town is becoming less welcoming. Just outside town sits an informal settlement, a reminder of the social pressures that continue to grow.

Shopping remains a sore point: clothing options are limited and most people end up travelling for basics they can’t find locally.

Tourism, though essential to the local economy, doesn’t always benefit the people who live here. Hotels that cater mainly to overseas visitors come with price tags that shut out residents, creating yet another divide in a town already balancing many.

Experience the Blyde River viewpoint

Standing at the Blyde River viewpoint feels like borrowing the eyes of an eagle. The canyon plunges into green depths; the river winds like polished glass between cliffs. Mist curls over the ridges at dawn, giving the landscape the appearance of a breathing giant.

Photographers wake before sunrise just to chase the fiery glow that spills across the rocks. Even locals who know it well return again and again, because each visit feels like the first. The canyon humbles, inspires and redefines what wild beauty means.

Runners-up

Bela-Bela secured second place by leveraging its strategic proximity to Gauteng. The town is defined by a dual character: laid-back breakaways at its hot springs and nearby wildlife estates on the one hand, contrasted by a congested CBD and a township with a vibrant soul on the other. However, rapid population growth continues to strain local service delivery.

Haenertsburg, known as the “Land of the Silver Mist”, offers serenity and a community spirit. Nature tourism drives the local economy. Its lush mountain setting creates a slow-paced village atmosphere that charmed the judges.

Louis Trichardt is recognised for its rich history and cultural diversity. Despite its potential, the town is marred by severe service delivery failures, specifically persistent water shortages and broken streetlights, which frustrate its socially active residents.

Modimolle serves as the commercial gateway to the Waterberg. The town is a vital economic hub for agriculture and tourism, though it faces the continuous challenge of balancing strained and in­adequate municipal services with its role as a growing regional centre. – Mukurukuru Media/DM

This story first appeared in our weekly DM168 newspaper, available countrywide for R35.