Local attractions and breathtaking day trips in and around the vital hub of Upington

Upington is a crucial travelling hub for overland visitors passing through. Here, they can resupply, refuel and generally relax from their arduous journeys. But it pays to stay a while in Upington, because there’s a lot to do locally.

A perfect “Upington orientation” would be an evening cruise down the mighty Orange River on Sakkie se Arkie, a double-decker floating bar, for a two-hour adventure of the restful variety.

You pass the people fishing from the banks, while squadrons of water birds fly home for the evening, traffic crosses overhead on the bridge and the lights of the riverside homes and guest houses begin to wink on. All this as the sun sets and the drinks are cold.

By day, we visit the local police station for a photo opportunity at the Camel Patrol statue outside. This was erected in honour of the first police detachments in Upington, men who rode trained camels into the Kalahari dunelands on the hunt for criminals of all kinds.

We tour the Kalahari-Oranje Museum in search of the history of the town and larger region, from its San and Khoekhoen roots to its dark colonial era, and end the day at our riverside lodge, with drinks and supper to follow.

A very special Upington encounter is the Paballelo Township Experience, which includes visits to the Upington 26 Monument and the Masakhane Arts Centre.

The Upington 26 Monument stands in a field in Paballelo where, in 1985, more than 3,000 anti-apartheid protesters were confronted by riot police and teargassed. A municipal policeman died in what was cynically called a “crowd killing”, which resulted in 25 murder convictions and 14 death sentences, which were later overturned.

The visit to the Masakhane Arts Centre can be made as part of a township cycle tour, along with a performance of local theatre, arranged beforehand.

The next morning, we leave Upington as early as we can and head west to Kakamas, turning north to the Augrabies Falls National Park. It’s an interesting 120km drive, and in late summer the falls are often engorged with up-country rainfall. But going to Augrabies is a win-win at any time of the year. You’re either going to be impressed by the huge power of the water that flows into the gorge, or (in the dry season) you’re going to love the dramatic rock formations that reveal themselves when water levels are down. And don’t forget the “moonscapes” to be seen along the Klipspringer Drive.

Another alluring Upington day trip is along the Orange River Wine Route, which begins at the Orange River Cellars in town. It’s a giant co-operative that represents more than 800 local grape growers, and produces fantastic wines from the region.

Here, your journey takes you to the vineyards around Kanoneiland, Keimoes, Kakamas, Upington, Grootdrink and Groblershoop. Lunch can be in Kakamas, either at Die Pienk Padstal or the Rose Café.

A long but very rewarding day trip destination from Upington is Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve. It lies between Groblershoop (where you can visit the famous Boegoeberg Dam) and Griquastad.

Named for its roaring white sands, the reserve is perfect for Kalahari birding, small game sightings, wild hikes, mountain biking and the thrilling option of sandboarding down the dunes.

For the amateur dry country botanists, there is a 3,2km meander that features more than 40 unique plant species. And, of course, if you’re staying over there will invariably be excellent stargazing.

Another interesting day drive from Upington is a southwards trip with Kenhardt as your lunchtime stop. The town is undergoing a solar energy boom currently, and is busier than it has ever been. Your recommended restaurant here is Oma Miemie’s, where the lamb pies and pecan nuts tarts are top-class.

The well-known quiver tree forest outside Kenhardt can be viewed from the roadside, but entry is currently prohibited. However, if you’re a fan of a quiver tree, the road between Upington and Kenhardt features thousands of them in clusters along the way.

Know before you go

The Upington region is set within one of South Africa’s hottest regions. Temperatures often soar in summer. By contrast, winter nights are icy.

Take your time driving to various day drives, and make a point of stopping at any farmstalls (padstalle) you see along the way. This is where you’ll find local fresh and baked produce, often supplied by surrounding farming families. They are great comfort breaks too.

In the unlikely scenario that you somehow manage to get stuck in soft sand on a dirt road, just lower the pressure in all four tires to one bar or a little more.

Try out the wine of the Orange River region. It is surprisingly good. DM

For an insider’s view on life in the South African Heartland, get the Karoo Quartet set of books (Karoo Roads I-IV with black and white photographs) for only R960, including taxes and courier costs in South Africa. For more details, contact Julie at julie@karoospace.co.za