Spend the night in sassy Soweto to catch the good vibes

Soweto is friendly, vibrant, complex and fascinating. After 72 hours there, I was overstimulated and exhausted at the same time.

I had laughed, cried, been shocked and heartened. I’d explored historic Vilikazi Street and Kliptown, toured around Jabulani and Jabavu, Meadowlands, Pimville, Orlando, Diepkloof and the Barra taxi rank.

I’d been delighted by the contemporary art on the Soweto Art Mile and the joyous greenery along the Soweto Garden Route. I’d drunk and partied at fabulous places and talked to what felt like a hundred people.

Not once did I feel unsafe. On the contrary, I received an infinity of warm greetings. Sanibonani, Soweto.

What to do and how to do it

The best way is to check it all out with a local guide. During my three-day fiesta, I was guided by different people arranged by Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, Jozi My Jozi and Soweto Township Accommodation Establishments (STAE).  I was impressed by their friendliness, depth of knowledge and signature Soweto humour.

You can do half-day, full-day and bespoke options, either by private car, minibus, bicycle or tuk-tuk.  Most first-time visitors head for Vilikazi Street and surrounds, a place of enormous historical significance.  There is a steady stream of tourists here, plus sidewalk stalls, curio shops, restaurants and scantily clad Zulu street dancers – yes, please.

Vilikazi is the only street in the world where two Nobel Peace Prize winners had their homes – Archbishop Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela.

Be prepared for strong emotions.

The nearby Hector Pieterson Museum details the 1976 student uprising that changed the course of this country and shook the world. Nearby Confrontation Corner is where the police opened fire on the students – now unbelievable to imagine.

Because I’ve visited Vilikazi Street many times before, I opted for the wilder four-hour tuk-tuk experience and set off with guides Fulufhelo Mudau and Lungile Mbangula, who took me on a fascinating spree.

We visited the Mzimhlophe elephant houses of Orlando West and did a gritty walk around the hostels, scene of torrid political violence in the 1980s and sadly still neglected.

We drove past the cooling towers advertising Grandpa, Shield and Vaseline, where you can bungee and zipline, and drove around Power Park and Diep-kloof Expensive, as locals call it. We passed the famous Amapiano Lounge, home of the music style that’s seized the world’s imagination. We saw squatter camps, goats eating piles of rubbish, clean parks, lovely upmarket suburbs and beautiful community projects.

Both the Soweto Art Route and the new Soweto Art Mile by guide Lufuno Matidza are a fabulous taste of the art scene in Soweto and include murals, parks, galleries, art centres, jazz lounges, shopping and rich Soweto culture.

The Eyethu Heritage Hall was once the iconic Soweto cinema and has been transformed into a funky new venue – I loved it. Also, the Mofolo Arts Centre and nearby Mofolo Park. We checked out Thesis Lifestyle, which sells fabulous homegrown urban wear, peeked in at the inspiring Morris Isaacson Centre of Music and admired the huge murals of street artist Senzo, whose work is scattered all around Soweto.

I was completely intrigued by the Credo Mutwa Cultural Village, which is a testament to the remarkable art and mind of this sangoma and prophet.

And what a joyous afternoon exploring some of the urban gardens along the Soweto Food Garden Route  with brilliant guides Thami Ndimane from Soweto Experience and Tsholo Gaechose from Kutsari Foods, an entrepreneur who links small-scale Sowetan farmers. The lack of water is a constant challenge, but it’s amazing to see people making food gardens in the middle of Soweto.

A personal highlight for me was a poignant walkabout through historic Kliptown, where the Freedom Charter was signed some 70 years ago. It is a World Heritage Site and Not Yet Uhuru (Not Yet Freedom), as the Letta Mbuli song goes. The imposing monument and Freedom Square stand in contrast to poverty and unemployment. Yet Kliptown has a beautiful spirit, a rich history of African, Indian and Chinese traders, a hard-nosed resilience.

I did a walkabout with guide TK Dube from Soweto Kliptown Youth, exploring Walter Sisulu Freedom Square, the main trading street and the community that lives over the bridge.

We spent an amazing morning at the Soweto Kliptown Youth community church, which feeds the souls and tummies of some 400 children every week, offering song, prayer and food. I met community activists and leaders who contribute to the upliftment of Kliptown, and checked out the studio of artist Bonginkosi Mavuso.

Where to stay

In true Soweto style, I was welcomed with a Sowetopolitan cocktail at Lebo’s Backpackers in Orlando West, one of the most popular stayovers. Lebo’s is a tourism hub, brightly decorated and famed for its outdoor thatched boma with beach bar vibes.

On my first morning there, I was woken at 4am by vuvuzelas blasting outside the window. Oh, how I cursed the Sowetan love of soccer. So early, in the dark, in winter? Turned out that the vuvuzelas are used by the local community policing forum to announce they’re on the streets and it’s safe for people to walk to the Mzimhlope train station and taxi rank to start their day.

I also spent a lovely night at Nthateng’s B&B, which is in the fabulously named Beverly Hills of Soweto, a posh area with gentle views and nice gardens. The cold was coming in and Nthatheng made sure I was tucked warmly into bed with a mountain of pillows and blankets, and treated me to a gorgeous breakfast in the gracious lounge-dining room.

On my last night I stayed at the four-star boutique Soweto Hotel in Kliptown, which overlooks Walter Sisulu Freedom Square and has amazing decor and a lovely spirit.

Where to eat, drink and be merry

What started as a gentle sunset drink at Native Rebels Bar & Grill in Jabavu turned into a full-blown jol with great food, good music and a convivial atmosphere.

I learnt very quickly that Sowetans love to party. Lebo’s Backpackers offers a hearty traditional lunch or dinner at its outdoor boma around the fire, and for sophisticated dining and lovely views, my vote goes to 1947 on Vilikazi.

I was smitten by the magwinya (vetkoek) that we got from a local street spot, and also really enjoyed the inyama enhloko (cow cheeks) at the Barra taxi rank – even though I’m largely vegetarian! Go figure. DM

This story first appeared in our weekly Daily Maverick 168 newspaper, which is available countrywide for R35.