Dip into wonder — A Guide to Tidal Pools of the Western Cape

‘Swimming in tidal pools is about joy, freedom and a sense of wonder. Swimming in a gym pool by comparison feels unnatural: tepid water and manky, shared showers,” says writer, photographer and open-water swimmer Serai Dowling. 

The guide is an invitation to explore some of the most beautiful outdoor swimming spots in the world. Here is an excerpt.

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An introduction to tidal pool swimming

Whether in sultry summers, when glistening azure waters welcome you, or in chilly winters when tumultuous seas tumble over the back wall, tidal pools in the Western Cape offer a splendid opportunity for adventure for young and old and those anywhere in between.

You’ll discover pools nestled between giant boulders and along stretches of soft sandy beaches, punctuated only by gulls or the odd otter. You’ll learn where spectacular natural pools welcome you in with a cool embrace, and swim at the foot of a massive mountain. You will dodge urchins on steps or sit quietly and watch as an octopus glides by – the pools are teeming with jewel-like sea creatures.

Tidal pools provide safe access for all, sheltering swimmers from rough seas and dangerous currents. In addition, tidal pools are cleaned out by the high tide twice a day. The resurgence in open-water swimming has meant that these pools have recently become more popular. 

When I started swimming in the Camps Bay Tidal Pool in 2013, it was just a dear friend and me, with a handful of other people and the gulls for company. Now we have to dodge the dippers, even at dawn! This is testimony to the pleasures to be had in these safe swimming zones. It perhaps also suggests the desire of the bathers to share the health benefits with friends and to immerse themselves in the natural splendours of the outdoors, particularly as our awareness of climate change becomes more acute.

The tidal pools of the Western Cape have a significant history and cultural relevance to their people, which is often overlooked or forgotten, and sometimes not even known. The pools haven’t always been inclusive: local laws prohibited people of colour from using them.

It was only with the creation of the railways and intentional emulation of the popular coastal resorts of Britain’s Brighton and Scarborough that Cape Town’s tidal pool creation began.

Fishermen created fish traps between rocky crags, and over time some of these were enclosed with walls and turned into bathing pools. In other instances, savvy sea bathers, seeking safe swimming, created their own pools.

Tidal pools link us safely to the sea, and also to other people. South Africa has a complicated past that bleeds into its current reality: both colonialism and apartheid shaped our history and silenced local voices. As a result, tidal pools in South Africa have a weightier cultural relevance than in other parts of the world. Their history is at once fascinating and complex, tainted by the colonists who brought the pools in their current format to this country, but who were also brutal gatekeepers of the geography of the landscape. Our pools today are largely poorly maintained, and yet they provide a backdrop for fun human connection and a sense of respite from the stressors of daily life. We are spoilt for choice, with an array of pools that are rich with sea life, historical depth and cultural relevance.

The advent and rise of outdoor swimming 

The advent and rise of outdoor swimming in Britain from the 19th century to the present day has been marked by various trends, developments and cultural shifts. This timeline highlights key milestones and events during this period: 

1815-1860s: The beginnings

1815: Cleveland Pools in Bath is built. It is the oldest outdoor public pool in the UK.

1850s: The concept of outdoor swimming gains greater popularity in Britain, primarily for health and exercise benefits.

1860: The Serpentine Lake in London’s Hyde Park becomes one of the first publicly accessible outdoor swimming locations.

Late 19th century: Pools and facilities

1880s: The construction of the purpose-built outdoor swimming pools begins in various British cities, offering safer, more controlled environments for swimmers.

Early 20th century: The golden era

1930s: This decade witnesses a golden era in the construction of lidos and outdoor swimming pools, with notable numbers of lidos opening across Britain.

1935: The Edmonton Lido is the first open-air pool to be called a lido, from the Italian word for ‘shore’ or ‘beach’. The Tinsdale Lido in Plymouth, designed by John Wibberley, is one of the notable lidos built in this period. 

Mid-20th century: Post-war decline

1940s–1950s: Some lidos and outdoor pools decline in popularity owing to post-war economic challenges and changing leisure preferences.

1960s: Many lidos struggle to stay open, facing financial difficulties and maintenance issues. According to Michael Wood for the Conversation, ‘The 1960 Wolfenden report, Sport and the Community and the 1968 Sports Council report Planning for Sport were catalysts for the demise of outdoor swimming pools in policy. The mandate was that “as a general rule, [pools] should be indoors”.’

1980s: Revival and restoration

1980s: A renewed interest in outdoor swimming, coupled with historical preservation efforts, leads to the restoration of several lidos.

21st century: Resurgence and diversity

2000s: A resurgence of interest in outdoor swimming, driven by health and fitness trends, contributes to the growth of wild swimming and open-water events, and the popularity of lidos.

2010s: Open-water swimming events, such as the Swim Serpentine in Hyde Park and the Henley Classic, gain prominence.

2020s: Outdoor swimming, including cold-water swimming and wild swimming, continues to grow in popularity, with enthusiasts enjoying natural bodies of water and organised events.

Inland spa culture – visiting lakes and baths away from the sea – had been popular for most of the 18th century, but it was Dr Richard Russell who was the first medical professional in the UK credited with extolling the virtues of seawater to treat physical ailments. Although his

focus was primarily on the waters of Brighton, he is recognised for fuelling the ‘seaside craze’ in the latter part of the 18th century. This, combined with changing social norms, contributed to the emergence of coastal resorts such as Brighton and Scarborough. Few medical experts questioned the therapeutic benefits of seawater, despite their doubts.

By the mid-1800s, when mandatory leave for senior male staff came into play in the UK, and the idea of outdoor swimming and the consumption of or exposure to seawater for its health benefits had become more firmly rooted, the railway provided easier access to what became booming coastal resorts. 

In time, the resorts developed to accommodate people’s desire for entertainment and amenities: piers, pavilions, lengthy promenades, bathing boxes (segregated by gender) and children’s entertainment were set up to draw people to Britain’s beaches, together with cafés, restaurants and curiosities. No longer were recreational activities for the upper classes alone – they became more accessible and acceptable. 

Towns sprang up around the resorts. The National Swimming Society was founded in 1837 and began to organise outdoor swimming events and teach swimming techniques.

Concurrently, in France, the first commercial gymnasium was opened by Hippolyte Triat in the 1830s, and by 1847 he had opened a popular gymnasium in Paris, which was a cultural centre of influence across Europe. The foundation for health improvement, body sculpting and the pursuit of wellness became well established.

In Britain, Edwardian and Victorian women had poorer facilities available to them. The austere laws and recommendations regarding acceptable bathing apparel reflected fundamental gender divides, despite the popularity of the sport and the recommendation of doctors of the health benefits of swimming for women.

In South Africa, coastal resorts were largely 20th-century developments. It is true that rocky coves were closed in informally, and that fishing traps or whaling pools were used for bathing purposes, but from 1910–1939 the Cape coast experienced significant municipal investment, and not inconsiderable private investment. However, the advent of World War II severely curtailed the spending. 

From 1910, the development of the railways helped to expedite the development of the coastal resorts of the Cape and popularise places like St James, Kalk Bay and Muizenberg (referred to as the ‘Brighton of the Cape’ in tourism guides around that time). The randlords, seeking relief from the heat of the interior of the country, and having amassed vast fortunes thanks to the discovery of gold and diamonds, invested in properties along the coast.

A brief history of open-water swimming in South Africa

The history of open-water swimming in South Africa is complex, marked by racial segregation and apartheid policies that restricted access to beaches for people of colour.

For clarification, here is a timeline highlighting key milestones and events related to open water swimming in South Africa, including the closure of some specific beaches.

1800s: Early beginnings

Mid-19th century: Open-water swimming becomes a very popular recreational activity among European colonists and visitors to the Cape Colony, with many taking advantage of the country’s extensive coastline. Following various health trends in Europe and Britain, sea swimming becomes a popular recreational pastime for those living at the Cape.

Early 20th century: Racial segregation

1913: The Natives Land Act is passed, which limits land ownership and access to certain areas such as beaches and swimming areas for South Africa’s ‘non-white’ population.

Early 1920s: Racial segregation policies are implemented at many public facilities, including beaches and swimming pools, with separate facilities designated for different racial groups.

Apartheid era: Continued segregation

1948: The National Party comes to power and formally establishes apartheid, institutionalising racial segregation and discrimination.

1950s–1960s: Apartheid policies intensify, further restricting ‘non-white’ South Africans’ access to beaches and swimming areas.

End of apartheid: Reintegration

1980s–1990s: With the end of apartheid in the late 1980s and early 1990s, South Africa begins the process of dismantling segregation policies.

1994: South Africa holds its first democratic elections, and Nelson Mandela becomes the country’s first black president.

Present day: Progress and equality

Since the fall of apartheid, South Africa has made significant progress in promoting racial equality.

All of the region’s once-segregated beaches, such as Strand, have been integrated, allowing people of all races to enjoy them freely.

The inspiration for the development of resorts on the Cape Peninsula can be traced back to 19th-century English coastal resorts, which served as a model for their South African counterparts.

These resorts featured several essential components: railway accessibility, accommodation options, piers, entertainment pavilions, promenades and horse-drawn bathing huts along the shoreline. As time passed, additional amenities, such as donkey rides and tearooms, were introduced to enhance the overall visitor experience.

The allure of these resorts grew significantly when they became favoured destinations for royalty and celebrities. The Marine Hotel and adjacent Marine Pool in Hermanus serve as prime examples: renowned authors and nobility visited here, among them Nicholas Monsarrat and Queen Victoria’s granddaughter HRH Princess Alice, adding a touch of glamour to the hotel’s enduring success and appeal.

Development efforts were happening concurrently along both the Atlantic and False Bay coastlines. Notable developments along the Atlantic included a privately constructed pool and pavilion at Sea Point (1895), a swimming pool and pavilion at Camps Bay (1904), the Adderley Street Pier in 1913, and the pavilion at Woodstock in 1914.

The construction of tidal pools along the Cape Peninsula coastline began in the late 1890s, with the first one established by a private company in a rocky inlet at Sea Point. More tidal pools were subsequently built along the rugged stretches of this coastline, reaching as far as Camps Bay. As the 20th century progressed and Cape Town expanded, tidal pools also emerged along the False Bay coast, extending from St James to Kalk Bay. In the 1930s, further expansion occurred southward, with the addition of tidal pools at Glencairn, followed by pools at Buffels Bay within the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (now Cape Point Nature Reserve) and Miller’s Point in the 1960s.

The creation of these tidal pools was motivated by various factors, including the popularity of sea bathing, its purported health benefits and the enduring influence of English culture on the Cape’s customs. Weather conditions also played a role, bearing in mind the Cape’s designation as the ‘Cape of Storms’ by early settlers. The storms and harsh winters of the region likely contributed to the desire to establish safer swimming spots along the scenic coastline.

During apartheid, millions of people were banned from many of the stunning areas in the Western Cape. White residents were granted most coastal access, particularly in prime locations often bordering smaller areas designated for ‘coloured’ residents, as seen in places like Hout Bay and Muizenberg.

Jayne Rogerson writes about the clear favouring of some racial groups in ‘Kicking Sand in the Face of Apartheid’:

In Cape Town national government representatives were only prepared to concede minimal beach space for use by Coloureds in the Cape Peninsula at a distance of 21 miles from the city centre and at an outlying beach to which no public transport was available (Sunday Times 22 March 1964). In addition it was reported several Coloured beach spaces were not only difficult to access but were ‘dangerous in terms of swimming and bathing’ (Horrell, 1967). The unequal allocation of beach facilities for different race groups is well illustrated by the area of Simonstown … In Simonstown where 61% of the local population was non-white the best beaches and amenities were allocated for the exclusive use of white bathers.

The more liberal of the City of Cape Town authorities were against demarcating segregated beaches. In 1965, however, as Roger Omond notes in The Apartheid Handbook, those beaches that were open to ‘non-white’ people were ‘found to be considerable distances from their homes, lacking in amenities and sometimes dangerous’. The council refused to put up no-entry signs until instructed to do so by the National Party–controlled administration. 

In the 1970s, apartheid architecture was in full effect. As Durrheim and Dixon comment, ‘[T]he Sea Shore Amendment Act (1972) empowered the Minister of Agriculture to confer control of the beaches to local and provincial authorities’. Subsequently, the central government persisted in exerting political influence on local authorities, urging them to rigorously implement segregation policies at beaches.

In 1978, the Cape Administrator made the decision to dedicate provincial government funds solely to the improvement of beaches open to everyone. By 1985, Cape Town had commenced the process of unifying its beaches.

During the 1980s, as apartheid faced mounting pressure and began to deteriorate, Cape Town experienced relatively minimal resistance to integrated beaches compared to cities like Port Elizabeth or Durban. In the politically liberal climate of 1980s Cape Town, public sentiment towards beach segregation took a notable shift. Rather than focusing solely on the reopening of beaches, local discussions turned towards vehement opposition to the exclusionary measures enforced by authorities. The controversial topic centred around the local government’s actions to fence off beaches and impose access fees on what were paradoxically labelled as ‘open beaches’, effectively making them inaccessible to people of colour.

Amid the escalating anti-apartheid movement, South Africa’s beaches transformed into settings for nonviolent defiance. Activists orchestrated a range of initiatives – from protest swims to multiracial gatherings dubbed ‘unity dips’ – at beaches restricted to whites. Led by the Mass Democratic Movement, which united various communities, campaigns emerged with rallying cries such as ‘Break the Chains of Beach Apartheid’ and ‘Equal Access to Our Coastlines’. These endeavours encompassed protest gatherings and synchronised actions to claim access to beaches historically reserved for whites only.

The desegregation of beaches wasn’t an isolated incident; rather, it unfolded within the broader context of the demise of the apartheid regime. In 1986, Cape Town took the initiative to open all its beaches without seeking approval from local authorities. 

By 1989, free access to beaches was established across much of the Cape Peninsula. In November of that year, State President F.W. de Klerk called upon local authorities to desegregate any remaining beaches designated for specific racial groups, resulting in the opening of all beaches by the end of 1989.

South Africa’s history of segregation and apartheid in particular had a profound impact on access to public spaces, including beaches, for people of colour. The struggle for equal access to these spaces is an important part of the country’s history. In this context, we can better understand how and why tidal pools can play a vital role in a newly ‘integrated’ society.

This extends well beyond health benefits and offering safe swimming spaces into creating the opportunity for regular social connection, respite and meaningful inclusivity. DM

Serai Dowling is a writer, strategist, mediator, researcher, photographer and open-water swimmer. Serai has lived in the Western Cape and explored its tidal pools since 1999. Her writing explores place, placemaking and identity. In addition to working in the education sector, she runs an outdoor adventure company for adults and children.

A Guide to Tidal Pools of the Western Cape is published by Rockhopper Books and retails at R395.