I had to cook this cut of meat. The great haunch staring at me was beef shin that had been chined so that a chunky section of its bone protruded proudly. It’s known as a Beef Hammer, for reasons that are obvious when you look at it. And it’s a winner.

The bone is abundant with marrow all the way through, and that is to be exploited for the punch of flavour it brings to a dish. And beef shin, though it is among the toughest of cuts, is packed with beefy flavour. So it demands a long, slow cook for the meat to become fall-off-the-bone tender and to accumulate all the flavour that will be your reward.

The size of the cut and the fact that it is tough dictates two things: that it must be cooked for a long time, at a low temperature, and that it needs to be entirely covered with liquid. The only suitable vessel was my heavy cast-iron Dutch oven but to fill it up enough to submerge the meat would require several litres.

I did not want to over flavour this shin, but rather to bring its own flavours to the fore. So I used a great quantity of beef stock (not too strong) after starting it off by frying some onion, carrot and celery with lots of garlic, very gently. The plan was first to get the beast tender, then to remove it from the pot and reduce the liquid down. With every minute of reduction, the flavours became more and more intense and wonderful.

Then, halfway through, I added black olives and the brine from their jar. That turned out to be the clincher. Best thing I’ve cooked this year by far and a contender for recipe of the year.

A good butcher will be able to prepare this cut of beef shin for you. Never be shy to ask; they’re creative people who like to please and to show us what they can do. Most butchers appreciate being asked for something specific. You could show them the photo above on your phone if they don’t know the cut. Then leave them time to do it while you do the rest of your shopping.

When I say it serves two or more, I know people who would be happy to have one all to themselves. But it provided two generous portions of meat. Oh and it’s cheaper than a lot of cuts of beef too.

(Serves 2 or more, depending on size)

Ingredients

1.2 kg cut of beef hammer (shin on the bone)

3 Tbsp rosemary olive oil (or plain)

1 large onion, chopped

4 large carrots, chopped (no need to peel)

2 sticks of celery, diced

1 head of garlic, whole but the top sliced off

Beef stock (enough to cover the meat)

1 x 400 g can of chopped tomatoes

2 bay leaves

4 rosemary sprigs

10 or so black olives

100 ml olive brine

Salt and black pepper to taste

Cornflour diluted in cold water to thicken (optional)

Method

The meat needs to be at room temperature when you start. Make sure it’s clean and dry.

Chop your vegetables and have them ready.

Pour olive oil (I used rosemary-infused oil) into the pot and put it on a moderately high heat. When it’s hot, brown the meat as best you can, though the bone does get in the way of this. Remove it from the pot.

Add the chopped onion, stir and simmer for a minute or two, then add the carrots, celery and garlic and continue cooking and stirring for about five minutes.

Return the joint to the pot and add enough beef stock to cover. I first added cold water, then stirred in a quantity of Nomu liquid beef stock, I’d say about a third of a cup. But just pour in what feels right to you; there are times when you have to trust your judgement.

Add the chopped tomatoes, bay leaves and rosemary, season well with salt and fairly well with black pepper (you can adjust later), and bring it to a fair bubble.

Leave it to simmer, with the lid on, for three to four hours or until you can tell that the meat is very tender. Top up with more beef stock when it needs more.

Carefully remove the meat (with its bone) and turn the heat up high.

Strain the liquid into a big bowl or jug, and discard the vegetable aromatics (but not the garlic, that can go back in). 

Add the olives and olive brine and reduce until you have a reasonably thick sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning and cook for another few minutes if you add more salt and pepper. Scoop the olives out onto your serving plates. Strain the sauce and reheat. If you’d like it thicker, stir in the diluted cornflour and cook, stirring, for a few more minutes on a low heat. 

I swear, this had oodles and oodles of the kind of flavours that have French chefs sighing and swooning. Mashed potato, polenta or cooked pasta would accompany it well.

DM/TGIFood

Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.

This dish is photographed on a platter by Mervyn Gers Ceramics.