TGIFOOD

PLANT-BASED BRAAI

What do vegans eat at a BBQ? Katy Beskow has the answer

What do vegans eat at a BBQ? Katy Beskow has the answer
Hasselback butternut, left, and the author with an incidental image to the right. (Photo: Luke Albert/composite image by Tony Jackman)

‘What do vegans eat at a barbecue?’ is a question that British food writer Katy Beskow has often been asked and overheard (as a vegan of 15 years) ‘more times than I can count’. She cooks up 70 plant based recipes to cook out of doors in her new book, Vegan BBQ.

Barbecuing and grilling are traditionally associated with cooking meats, and aside from a simple skewer of vegetables or a corn-on-the-cob, the options have previously been limited. But the truth is that barbecuing combines a range of techniques to bring out the best in so many vegetables and plant-based foods – making them the stars of the show.

When you move away from the idea that the barbecue is just there to cook meat (or processed meat alternatives) a world of possibilities opens up to you. Ingredients are transformed when cooked on the barbecue, with charred, smoky flavours and crisp yet tender textures to awaken your senses. I believe that everything tastes better when it’s cooked on the barbecue so you can really push the boundaries and be creative! Using fresh, sustainably grown, seasonal ingredients that are readily available in supermarkets, it’s easy to create outstanding food, whether that’s standalone suppers or feasts for gatherings of friends and family. 

Hosting a barbecue for loved ones is one of life’s little pleasures. Unlike cooking in a cramped kitchen, cooking outdoors feels particularly sociable as you can enjoy the company of others, a cool drink, and making memories while you cook full-of-flavour food, hopefully in the sunshine. It’s also a great way to showcase vegan food in a casual and relaxed way. But don’t just limit your barbecue to a once-a-year piece of equipment that grills vegan burgers and plant-based sausages; use it more often to cook your supper, without any special occasion needed.

Cooking can feel like a chore. Weekly meals on repeat (even for me, as a food writer) can leave us uninspired by yet another supper to prepare. This is when it’s time to dust off the barbecue, add some fire (literally), cook outside, and infuse your food with flavours that can’t be created in any other way. I’m a big believer that barbecuing isn’t just for those glorious summer get-togethers, but something that can be enjoyed all year round, as long as you avoid those rainy days. On a chilly autumn or winter day (or evening), simply grab your hat and a warm coat, fire up the barbecue and be inspired by seasonal produce to invigorate your meals.

Whether you’re a vegan, vegetarian, or are simply craving fresh new dishes, there are so many delicious possibilities when barbecuing plant-based foods. Not only are you choosing more sustainable, cruelty-free and seasonal ingredients, but you’re opening up a world of new flavours. There are also far fewer food safety concerns when cooking vegan food on the barbecue compared to cooking animal products, so you won’t have to worry about the serious risks of feeding your friends and family undercooked meat – a real plus if you are new to this type of cooking.

If you’re not confident with preparing or cooking on the barbecue, I’ve included tips and advice on the types of barbecue and charcoal to use, how to light it effectively, any extra equipment you need, and practical ways to know if your barbecue is hot enough (or too hot) to cook with.

I promise that it’s much simpler than you think. I’ve included a shopping guide of my favourite ingredients, and every recipe has a “Hot Tip” to help you get the most out of the ingredients. Most of the recipes are cooked on the barbecue itself, but I’ve included some additional recipes that are cooked or prepared in the kitchen; these are dishes that perfectly complement barbecued food, so you can create something memorable every time. I’ve kept the recipes as simple as possible, while packing in masses of flavour, so you can spend more time eating and less time preparing.

Have fun as you cook in the great outdoors – whether it’s on your bijou balcony, garden patio, or even on the beach – while you enrich your food with depth of flavour and perfect, crisp textures. There’s something exciting about cooking outside on the barbecue, with that rich smoke, the sizzling sounds from the grill and a varied way of cooking that will inspire you to create some of your best vegan food that everyone will love.

Tamarind aubergines

Tamarind aubergine. (Photo: Luke Albert)

(Serves 2)

My favourite way to cook aubergines is on the barbecue, as the skin absorbs all the smoky flavours and the flesh becomes ultra-tender. This recipe is simple and quick, but looks impressive served to your guests (or for your supper). Tamarind has a sour flavour that balances the sweet, smoked aubergines with hints of maple, cinnamon and chilli in the marinade. Serve with olive flatbreads and pistachio, pomegranate and mint salad with bulgar and orange.

Ingredients

4 Tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

3 Tbsp maple syrup 

2 tsp tamarind paste

½ tsp ground cinnamon 

pinch of dried chilli flakes 

2 aubergines (eggplants), halved lengthways with green top left intact

seeds of ½ pomegranate

handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped  

Method

In a bowl, whisk together the olive oil, maple syrup, tamarind paste, cinnamon and chilli flakes.

Lay the aubergine halves on a flat surface and score the flesh in diagonal lines to make a criss-cross pattern. Dip the cut sides into the marinade, using a pastry brush to push the marinade into the scored lines, then coat the skin in the marinade. Stand the aubergines on a plate for 10–15 minutes, keeping the extra marinade in the bowl.

Use tongs to place the aubergines onto the grill, skin-side down, for 15 minutes. Baste the flesh with extra marinade, then turn cut-side down onto the grill and cook for 10 minutes until browned and tender.

Remove from the grill and arrange on a serving plate. Drizzle with a little extra olive oil, then scatter with pomegranate seeds and chopped parsley.

Hot tip

Aubergines absorb lots of flavour and moisture in a short space of time so there’s no need to marinate longer than 15 minutes.

Smoky paella with butter beans and olives

Smokey paella. (Photo: Luke Albert)

(Serves 4)

The barbecue is the perfect place to cook paella as the heat starts high – perfect for chargrilling the vegetables – before naturally reducing in temperature while the rice is absorbing the saffron stock. It is also a wonderful, sociable way to cook this summery dish, which is just made for sharing. Use a deep, stainless steel paella dish and the freshest ingredients you can find. I love tender Spanish butter beans (from a jar rather than a can) for this recipe, and a pinch of good-quality saffron for a honeyed taste. Serve with a cool glass of sangria, and dream of a balmy, Spanish dusk.

Ingredients

pinch of saffron strands 

800 ml (3⅓ cups) hot vegetable stock

6 mixed mini sweet (bell) peppers, halved and deseeded

1 courgette (zucchini), sliced into rounds

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 unwaxed lemon, halved 

1 onion, finely diced

3 garlic cloves, crushed 

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp dried oregano

300g (10oz) bomba paella rice 

400g (14oz) canned or jarred butter (lima) beans, drained and rinsed

8 pitted green olives, sliced into rounds

handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

small handful of fresh dill, roughly torn, stems discarded

pinch of sea salt

Method

Stir the saffron into the hot vegetable stock in a jug or pan and allow to infuse.

In a bowl, toss together the peppers and courgettes with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Lay the vegetables onto the hot grill along with the lemon halves and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side, or until char lines appear and the vegetables soften. Set aside in a bowl.

Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of olive oil into a 30cm (12in) carbon steel (barbecue-safe) paella pan and place the pan onto the grill. When the oil is hot, add the diced onion and soften for 5-7 minutes.

Add the garlic, smoked paprika and oregano and cook for a further 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently, until fragrant.

Stir in the rice and coat in the mixture for a couple of minutes, then add in half the stock. Cover the pan with kitchen foil or close the barbecue lid and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until most of the stock has absorbed. Stir in the remaining stock along with the butter beans and cook for a further 10 minutes until the stock is absorbed and the dish is starchy and thickened.

Scatter the cooked vegetables over the top and squeeze over the charred lemons. Scatter on the olives, flat-leaf parsley and dill. Season with salt to taste, then allow to stand off the heat for 5-10 minutes before eating.

Hot tip

Prepare all the ingredients before you start cooking so you can easily throw together the paella outside on the barbecue, with everything you need to hand.

Buttered hasselback squash with chimichurri

Butternut, braaied. (Photo: Luke Albert)

Barbecue cooking temperature: medium heat. Move some of the charcoal to the side so part of the grill has indirect heat.

(Serves 4)

Buttery, bay-infused butternut squash becomes the star of the show when barbecued, with the sweet flavour balanced by fresh chimichurri. A sharp, Y-shaped vegetable peeler will take the skin off the butternut squash with ease: peel off the whiteish area under the skin too, to reveal the firm orange flesh. Perfect with charred pepper orzo salad with olives and sage and onion sausage rolls with ketchup.

Ingredients

1 medium butternut squash, peeled and halved lengthways, seeds discarded

3 tbsp vegan butter 

1 dried bay leaf

generous pinch of sea salt and black pepper

For the chimichurri:

30g fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

½ tsp dried oregano

½ tsp smoked paprika 

pinch of dried chilli flakes 

juice of 1 unwaxed lemon 

2 tsp cider vinegar

150 ml (generous ½ cup) extra virgin olive oil

Method

Place half of the butternut squash onto a chopping board, flat-side down so it doesn’t wobble. Carefully slice into the squash widthways, cutting a slice every 5mm (¼in). Be careful not to cut all the way down to the chopping board (see “Hot Tip”). Repeat with the remaining half.

In a small pan, heat the butter and bay leaf over a low heat until melted. Allow to stand for a moment, then discard the bay leaf. Brush the butternut squash with the melted butter, pushing it into the slices too. Sprinkle over the salt and pepper.

Place onto the grill over the area of indirect heat. Place the lid down or loosely cover with foil and cook for 45 minutes, rotating a couple of times. Remove the lid or foil and cook for a further 15 minutes, or until tender.

Meanwhile, make the chimichurri by tossing the chopped parsley, oregano, paprika and chilli flakes into a bowl. Stir in the lemon juice, cider vinegar and olive oil and mix until evenly distributed. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then allow to stand and infuse.

Carefully remove the cooked squash from the barbecue and place onto a serving plate. Generously spoon over the chimichurri.

Hot tip

For the perfect hasselback effect, place chopsticks or spoons lengthways, at either side of the squash, before you start slicing through the flesh. This will prevent the knife from cutting too far into the squash. DM/TGIFood

Vegan BBQ by Katy Beskow (Hardie Grant/Quadrille)

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