Image by Lezanne Viviers; image design created by Sahra Heuwel

This look, named “…But a fly”, encapsulates the conceptual narrative of “OR/BITING AURABOROS”, our Spring/Summer 2020 collaborative collection with visual artist Marlene Hettie Steyn. The silhouette originated from rough sketches Marlene drew, which I translated to inform the pattern, and designed as a new shape. As a cornerstone concept piece for the show, this dress is a symbol of infinity; it is a symbol that nothing exists in isolation, but as a whole.

It took five people a total of 90 hours to create and it is made of a combination of pure nylon, encrusted with natural precious and semi-precious stones, mixed with vintage 1950s viscose/rayon ribbons, which were pleated rhythmically, to create the back spine of “…But a fly.” Genuine python skins were traced and studied to capture the slithering infinite movement of the ouroboros snake [an ancient symbol depicting a serpent or dragon eating its own tail].

The sheer front window panels, or “portals to her soul”, are hand embellished in our studio with Czech glass crystals and volcanic rocks. The base elements in alchemy: mercury, sulphur and salt, inspired the metal base colour palette for the full collection. In alchemy, when these elements were combined, it is said that they made up the colour gold, which is evident throughout the garments.

I am definitely aware of the zeitgeist, the times we live in, and therefore influenced by the way people behave. Fashion trends refer to people’s behaviour and their approach; nothing exists in isolation. Street style inspires couture shows, that are again personalised and interpreted back on the streets.

To deny our connectedness to one another, us as the whole, the sum of all our parts, that would be to deny our own existence. So, if I had to name the trend behind the collection, it would be “connectivity”. ML