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PHOTO ESSAY

Exploring the high peaks and hidden valleys of the Great Karoo’s Sneeuberg Ranges

This Karoo photo essay explores a mountain region that seems to have passed out of national memory: the Sneeuberg Ranges.

The jagged ironstone peaks and valleys of the Sneeuberg mountains near Graaff-Reinet (Photo: Morne van Jaarsveld) The jagged ironstone peaks and valleys of the Sneeuberg mountains near Graaff-Reinet (Photo: Morne van Jaarsveld)

This is the newly named Great Karoo Wilderness (GKW), in which some 200 Sneeuberg landowners have signed up to form the largest Protected Environment in South Africa.

We take you to the High Country of the Karoo, with its own deep history of habitation and conflict, its own botanical species and its vast, folded mountain landscapes.

The Sneeuberg also holds the promise of refuge for city dwellers seeking a faraway place to fill their lungs with fresh air and rediscover forgotten trails by mountain bike.

Where is the Sneeuberg?

Between the Eastern Cape Karoo towns of Nxuba (formerly Cradock) and Graaff-Reinet, stretching outwards as far as Nieu-Bethesda, Middelburg, Murraysburg and Pearston, lies this enormous arc of mountain massifs.

These are the Sneeuberg Ranges. Its peaks are among the highest in South Africa.

Crumple up a piece of paper, throw it on the floor, and you’ll have a rough idea of the geography from above. There are high peaks here, like Compassberg and Nardou, but many are folded into the interior, only visible from certain angles.

At its widest girth, this mountain system stretches some 200km between Nxuba and Murraysburg.

The Camdeboo National Park outside Graaff-Reinet and the Mountain Zebra National Park near Nxuba bracket the Great Karoo Wilderness, anchoring a spectacular, vast conservation landscape in the heart of the Karoo.

For most South Africans, a Sneeuberg experience – with its horseback journeys, wild fly fishing, single-track mountain paths, hiking routes and hideaway farm stays – is a travelling treasure hidden in plain sight.

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The Sneeuberg mountain range falls within the Eastern Cape, the grassy part of the Karoo. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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The Roof de Karoo Challenge was stopped by Covid-19 in 2020, but there are plans to revive it. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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The Stone Folk of Ongeluksloot are silent companions as you explore the Sneeuberg heights near Nieu-Bethesda. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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In June and July, Aloe ferox blooms brighten the blonde land. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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The Sneeuberg range of mountains stops at Murraysburg in the east, with its distinctive Spitkop peak. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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The highest and most distinctive peak in the Sneeuberg range is Compassberg. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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It can snow in the well-named Sneeuberge in nine months of the year. Whiteouts in January are not unknown. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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The farmers of the Sneeuberg have learnt the value of snow, because the slow melt feeds underground springs. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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Because of the altitude, everything ices over in midwinter. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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The late Derek Carstens of Bankfontein, a natural haven deep in the Sneeuberg mountains, not far from Cradock. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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Lindy Truter and Julie Hobson of Karoo Ranching, also set in the Sneeuberg north of Graaff-Reinet. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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Here and there you still find the slumping remains of an old ox wagon, which is how the first settlers got here. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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Black wildebeest are found only in South Africa and were on the brink of extinction decades ago. Now they have a stronghold in the national parks (Camdeboo and Mountain Zebra) and on surrounding game farms. (Photo: Chris Marais)
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Compassberg’s ironstone peak looms above the Sneeuberg village of Nieu-Bethesda. (Photo: Chris Marais) DM

For an insider’s view on life in the South African Heartland, get the Karoo Quartet set of books (Karoo Roads I-IV with black-and-white photographs) for only R960, including taxes and courier costs in South Africa. For more details, contact Julie at julie@karoospace.co.za

Karoo Space books by Julienne du Toit and Chris Marais.

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