Chef Matthew Gordon is moving on after 25 years

One of the humblest and most grounded chefs working at the Cape is signing off – sort of – after 25 years at this veteran of the French-styled village.

The chef we are talking about is Matthew Gordon, who is leaving his French Connection in Franschhoek’s main road after a quarter of a century.

It’s a strange thought that I saw him start out, in the early 1990s, and now am seeing him sign off. I first met Matt in 1992 when his mother Penny Gordon contacted me to say she and her photographer husband Dennis had moved to Franschhoek from Johannesburg and their son, Matthew, was opening his own restaurant. Actually, two restaurants.

I drove out to Franschhoek and met Penny and Matt at Le Ballon Rouge, at the start of a career that truly soared. He was to soar in other ways too – he’s a keen pilot, borrowing a friend’s plane when he feels like a flip over the wine valleys and the timeless mountains that overlook them.

But (hindsight being a wonderful thing) Le Ballon Rouge wasn’t the start of his career at all. He had worked as a waiter at Johannesburg’s Carlton Hotel’s Clubroom at just 18, before attending Hotel School at Wits Technikon in 1985/86, then moved to London for a stint, followed by the inevitable army callup. Even there, he was in the catering and functions divisions.

In 1990 he was working at Vancouver’s Café de Paris Bistro, before returning to Johannesburg to work at the Sandton Sun, Chapters and then Villa as first sous chef. Later that year he moved to Cape Town where he was based at the Mount Nelson Grill Room as head chef with the great Garth Stroebel.

A stint at the Bay Hotel in Camps Bay as sous chef followed, and by 1992 he was opening not one, but two restaurants in Franschhoek – the Grapevine and, within two months, Le Ballon Rouge.

His tenure at some places overlapped. Though French Connection opened in 2002, he was involved with Haute Cabriere Cellar Restaurant from 1994 to 2011. He consulted for Laborie from 2011 to 2015. And he’s keen to do more consulting as soon as his less burdensome role kicks in this September.

After Le Ballon Rouge he joined up with (the late) Achim von Arnim at Haute Cabriere, and in the ensuing years won various awards as his career reached a zenith. Then, 25 years ago, he made a decision to go in a slightly different direction, and opened a steakhouse right in the town’s main street.

This week, Matt – who has a journalist’s way with words, no doubt thanks to growing up with parents who were in newspapers – made the announcement of his decision on Facebook, in a post in which he detailed that change of direction.

“After 25 wonderful years, it’s time for a new chapter. Twenty five years ago, French Connection almost never happened. I had a vision for a restaurant that I believed would be perfect for Franschhoek. Excited and full of conviction, I phoned the estate agent and told him I wanted to buy the property. His response was devastating: ‘I’m sorry, it’s too late. I sold it this morning.’

“I couldn’t believe it. I was convinced this was meant to be. I asked who had bought it and immediately called Trevor Kirsten. I told him I wanted to buy the property from him, even at a premium. At that stage I had no idea where the money would come from. I just knew I had to make it happen.

“Trevor’s response changed the course of my life. He said, ‘I’m a buyer, not a seller. But come up to the farm and see me.’

“By the end of that meeting, he wasn’t selling me the property but was offering something far more valuable. He suggested we become partners, not only in the property but in the restaurant itself.

“Sadly, Trevor passed away suddenly in 2010. I will never forget the faith he showed in me, my vision and the lessons he taught me about business, partnership and life.”

French Connection has been sold to Nic and Louise Poole and their children, Lauren, Amy and Matt.

Matthew Gordon says: “This is not just a sale. It is a handover to people who genuinely understand hospitality and who share our values. Nic and Louise have built an outstanding reputation through their hospitality businesses around South Africa, including Franschhoek. They have also been long-standing customers of French Connection and have a genuine passion for the restaurant. We could not be happier with this match. It feels like the perfect fit.

“Most important, French Connection will remain French Connection. The staff, the atmosphere and the warm, welcoming character of the restaurant will remain completely unchanged.

“I ask that you continue to support Nic, Louise and their team as generously as you have supported me over the years. They will take over the restaurant on the 1st of August.”

Being tied to a restaurant and its kitchen deprives chefs of the time they might like to devote to travel, or to visit the restaurants of their peers. And if you thought that cooking at home would be too much like hard work for those in this profession, many of them get the fire going when they get home, if the weather is playing ball.

“We’re going to travel this year,” he said this week while preparing to board a plane. “We’re going to Italy 🇮🇹 in September. I’m 60 and and I’ve never been. I cooked in Japan and Russia but not Italy 😂. I braai a lot, We have built a pizza oven at home, but I still need some practice.”

A career highlight: “I was the first South African chef to be invited to cook at the James Beard House in New York. Quite an honour.”

Having more down time will lead to more such highlights, surely. Matt Gordon, a chef with great talent but a humble demeanour, sure deserves that. DM