Tony Jackman’s calamari and olive stew. (Photo: Tony Jackman) There are two essential ways of cooking calamari: quick or slow. The vague rule is to choose between three or 30 minutes. Over three, and your squid is likely to turn tough. Thereafter it needs at least 30.
This method requires a minimum of 30 minutes, up to about 45. I cooked this stew for 40 minutes. It’s a very satisfying way of cooking calamari.
I happened to have bought calamari “steaks”. A calamari steak is the mantle (flattened body) or a large squid, cut into squares (more or less) and frozen. They thaw easily, and need to be well drained. You can also press the flesh down firmly and thereby squeeze off excess water.
But rings are fine for this stew too. I’ve made a version of it with rings and they look really grand among the tomatoes and olives.
There’s something of Spain about the dish, or at least the Mediterranean. You can add chilli if you like. I didn’t, but I did use a touch of chilli oil.
You’ll spot a perhaps unexpected ingredient here: balsamic reduction. I added this because of the tartness of the tomatoes — rather than adding a little sugar to offset that.
Tony’s calamari, tomato and olive stew
Ingredients
4 calamari steaks, thawed if frozen
Olive oil, 2 to 3 Tbsp
Chilli oil, 1 Tbsp
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, seeded and chopped (optional)
200 ml dry white wine
1 x 400g can chopped, peeled tomatoes
100 g black olives, drained, and their brine
1 Tbsp balsamic reduction
Salt and black pepper to taste
A handful of chopped parsley
Rice, cooked, to serve
Method
Pat the thawed calamari steaks dry, and lay them on a board, membrane side up. Prise off the membranes and discard. Using a sharp knife, score that side of the steak in a diamond pattern, first in one direction, then the opposite.
Slice into strips about 1 cm thick. Leave aside.
Prepare the onion and garlic, heat a little olive oil in a heavy pot, add a drizzle of chilli oil, and add the alliums.
Simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the white wine. Turn up the heat and reduce by half.
Add the chopped tomatoes, chilli (if using), black olives, and stir in the balsamic reduction. Season with salt and pepper to your taste.
Add the calamari strips and stir to coat them in the sauce.
Bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer, and cook for about 40 minutes. Stir now and then. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Chop the parsley and stir two thirds of it into the sauce. Retain the remainder for garnish.
Meanwhile, cook as much rice as you need.
Serve the calamari stew with rice, garnished with chopped parsley. DM
Tony Jackman is twice winner of the Galliova Food Writer of the Year award.
Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.