Left, a selfie to prove to friends and family that I can spruce up if I need to. And right, the reason Sally Andrew and I decided to spruce up in smart but muted tones: the vividly attired Fehmz (left), whom Sally (right) was interviewing along with myself at the Kingsmead Book Fair. Which, yes, I reached — by hotel shuttle, because they insisted. But read what book fair organiser Alex Bouche has to say in this story… (Photos: Tony Jackman) Joburg people really do walk around their city, and the dire warnings that hotel staff issue to their guests are not necessarily based on reality – if the voices of real, ordinary Joburgers are to be believed. And why wouldn’t they be?
I asked readers of my TGIFood newsletter last Friday what they thought of the habit of reception staff in Joburg hotels – particularly in Rosebank, where I happened to stay recently – of urging hotel guests not to walk around in the streets. I had been staying at the Southern Sun Hotel in Rosebank’s Sturdee Avenue, and had wanted to walk down the street and across Tyrwhitt Avenue to Kingsmead College for their annual book fair, where I was taking part.
The receptionist was emphatic: I had to take an Uber. But it was a two-minute walk away, I remonstrated. I could virtually see the place I was headed to from the street outside the hotel.
“This is Joburg,” was her reply, as if that told you everything you needed to know. There would be trouble, there could be robbery, there might be assault. Or worse. Just while you were walking down a street along which was a reasonable flow of traffic. So, eyes everywhere.
I wasn’t convinced, and said so in my newsletter last Friday, asking Joburgers to tell me what they thought of this. And that was not an isolated example – over many years, I have often been warned in this way by hotel staff as well as by uniformed men in the streets who tell you to put your phone away and not to walk. In Sandton, in Rosebank, and in “the Parks” (the local term for a quartet of leafy suburbs – Parkview, Parkhurst, Parkwood and Parktown North). Actually, I think people who live in nearby Craighall Park include their suburb too.
/file/attachments/2993/mandla-square_214562.jpg "Above and below: two ‘Mandela’ views of Johannesburg. Above, Kobus Hattingh and Jacob Maponyane’s six-metre statue of Mandela on Mandela Square in Sandton — another spot where you can walk around safely. Below, Marco Cianfanelli’s statue of Nelson Mandela, entitled Shadow Boxer, outside the Magistrate’s Court in the city’s CBD, part of my long walk through the CBD in February. Across the road are the premises of the law firm Tambo and Mandela. It is a thrilling place to be, knowing that the two men walked across the road right there, on their way to defend their clients in court. (Photos: Tony Jackman)")
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Yet, seemingly giving the lie to claims of potential catastrophe the moment you step out of your hotel, whenever I’ve looked up and down the streets where these warnings have been issued, I’ve seen no evidence of chaos and mayhem. Only people strolling, cars moving, and nothing to suggest that hordes of people meet a sticky end every time they step out there.
So, when in doubt, ask the people…
Hear Lucy Allais, of Killarney:
“In answer to your question about whether we walk in Rosebank – absolutely. Frequently. My husband regularly walks from our flat in Killarney to the Starbucks on Cradock (Street), with his laptop.
“My elderly parents walk from Killarney to Fournos in Rosebank for a stroll and breakfast. I have more than once walked at night, having sundowners on the rooftop at the Radisson Red (terrible drinks but very much worth it for the view), and walked from there to Momo Kuro or Modern Tailors.
“The idea that people are warned not to walk from a Rosebank hotel to Kingsmead seems really bizarre.”
Alex Bouche, who lives in Craighall Park, is the organiser of the Kingsmead Book Fair. She’d given me a charming welcome on my arrival for our session. She wrote to me after reading my newsletter last Friday.
It turns out that she, too, walks freely around the area.
“It was so lovely to meet you last weekend at the Kingsmead Book Fair. Thank you so much for joining us. I was so pleased to see you looking so well after following your heart operation with trepidation, knowing our festival was so soon.
“I absolutely loved your below newsletter and article – thank you for referencing the Kingsmead Book Fair and for your lovely words about Fehmz and your panel, I am so glad that you enjoyed it.
“To be honest, I walk the streets of the area quite freely and often walk across the road from Kingsmead to Rosebank, without a care in the world.
“I have heard of one or two instances where people are stopped and mugged while crossing, but I have never seen it happen – thank goodness – nor felt threatened at any stage.
“I will never walk with my phone out and on display and I do keep my wits about me. I do think the guards are being cautious, but I worry that it might cause a bit of panic among guests.
“Next time, I can quite confidently say that you should make it across the street in one piece!
“I live not far from Rosebank, in Craighall Park, and I walk the streets of my neighbourhood alone, at different times of the day, and have never felt threatened or concerned. I like to think that I am not living in denial.
“Shame, Joburg sometimes gets a bad rap.
“Anna Trapido’s article inspired me to make an Asian-inspired chicken noodle soup last night for my family, particularly my son, who has caught my head cold, and he can concur that the aromas and warmth of the soup were indeed good for the soul and made him feel much better!
“Thanks again – I hope that we will be able to welcome you back to the Kingsmead Book Fair again in the future.”
/file/attachments/2993/angl-a-_491369.jpg "Above and below: I love the way the windows of the Anglo American headquarters in Rosebank reflect the nearby city. During an earlier visit, I walked all over the Joburg CBD with a tour guide, including Marshalltown, where Anglo was based for many years. (Photos: Tony Jackman)")
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Lindsay Godfrey lives in Pretoria but visits Joburg often. She replied briefly but her succinct remarks get to the nub of things:
“I walked from Nine Yards on Jan Smuts to the Gautrain station yesterday without a qualm. I felt very safe except when crossing a busy intersection.”
Sue Ellis of Sunninghill not only walks in Rosebank. She runs.
“Just to let you know that I often walk in Rosebank and more than that, I am a runner and have been running through Rosebank and Parktown North for many years without an incident.
“The statement that Rosebank is unsafe is totally inaccurate. It is a totally safe shopping and entertainment area – so lovely! At the start of my working career, I was the junior PRO for The Mall shopping centre and I grew up in The Parks, so Rosebank has made its mark on my life and in my heart!”
“I grew up in Parkview and lived there for many years in my adult years – apart from marrying a game ranger and living in the bush for a while. I have been running around Zoo Lake, around the Zoo, through Saxonwold, Rosebank and Parktown North for about 30 years.
“I now live in Sunninghill but still long for my ‘home runs’ from Parkview and take the time to do these whenever I get a chance. So lovely!
“Rosebank is 100% safe!”
/file/attachments/2993/blockman_969463.jpg "Above and below: The view from the excellent Embarc restaurant in Parkhurst towards The Blockman, the wildly popular ode to fire and prime beef, just across the street. I have yet to go, but it’s on my list. And, below, a troupe of buskers entertaining passersby for their generosity in front of Embarc restaurant. Locals stroll freely along the street. (Photos: Tony Jackman)")
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Nicci Lenferna de la Motte, of Saxonwold, gets out and about a lot – often on foot.
“I love reading your newsletter every Friday afternoon – thank you. And an even bigger thank you for featuring Johannesburg restaurants. The food scene in Jozi has improved so much in recent years and it is wonderful to see it receiving some recognition.
“More to the point in reply to your question regarding the safety of Rosebank. I live in Saxonwold, five minutes from Rosebank, and probably spend on average three days a week in Rosebank.
“I shop there (food & clothing & pharmacy), I visit the bars, I dine there regularly and I walk. I walk through the Mall, through the Zone, through the precinct.
“I have even walked from Saxonwold to Rosebank on a few occasions and NEVER had an incident and never felt unsafe. I have been doing this for about 20 years. I don’t wear jewellery anywhere in Johannesburg and I never carry a handbag – but I always have my phone and some money on a chain or small bag around my shoulders.
“So yes, I completely agree with you – it is safer than many make out – but it is also about being aware of one’s surroundings and not prancing around with Gucci bags and diamond rings.
“Thank you for continuing to sing the praises of this fabulous city.”
Steve Koch, of Claremont, Cape Town, brings a friendly outsider’s perspective:
“LOVED (again!) your article on Jozi. I agree absolutely with you. Over the last few years I regularly spent a night in Rosebank – 54 on Bath Hotel — on a scheduled tour with Donald Trump’s people (thankfully not the evil bastard himself!). Walked around without a care – even after dark. Not once was I – or anyone in the group(s) – warned about safety. Recently spent a few nights at the Sandton Garden Court – also no issues.
“I tell tourists – AND locals – that I would actually prefer to live in Joburg than here in Slaapstad. Joburg is… African Energy! Sadly (for me) Cape Town is on all tourists’ list of must do’s, not Joburg, so here I am... all about the bloody money!
“Keep up the good work – and glad you made it safely through the hospital experience! Reading your writings on that brought back many memories for me – I had two cerebral aneurisms within an hour 16 years ago (lucky to be alive!!). I went through pretty much the same after regaining consciousness.
“Be well, happy and kind – and please keep writing!”
Athalie Besseling lived in Johannesburg for 34 years. She writes that she has been robbed – but not in Joburg:
“I worked for various ad agencies in Rosebank at various times – and walked there happily unmolested, carrying as always a large handbag. As you say, the locals are walking around. But I suppose there are tourists from safer climes who are ripe for the picking.
“In all 34 years in Jozi the crime we experienced was an attempted window break-in, in Westdene, and a bicycle stolen from Bryanston.
“The worst robbery that has ever happened to us as a couple was in Fish Hoek (Cape Town). One mugging by some very large women in a shop (of my husband) and two house robberies in 48 hours. Sjoe. Now there’s a spot for robbers. All phones and laptops.
“Glad you’re up and about and doing well.”
Finally, Chris Lingley, who lives in Vietnam but visits Johannesburg often, offers an international perspective:
“I was quite intrigued by what you wrote about Johannesburg being dangerous. I am South African but do not live in South Africa. I have not lived in South Africa since about 1991, currently being based in Vietnam, but I do visit regularly.
“At this point I visit Johannesburg almost monthly. This is for business purposes. Over time I have stayed in Sandton, the CBD, Kempton Park, Bedfordview, and also in Equestria (Pretoria).
“I constantly hear about how dangerous it is, but in my experience it is not. I have never been robbed/mugged whether walking or in a car. I am not a great walker, and typically use Uber to get around.
“I have lost various items while out and about – a mobile phone, but I left it in a shopping cart in the supermarket parking lot. My wallet in an Uber, which I did retrieve, with nothing missing.
“I have ventured quite far afield during my visits. FYI, I am gay, and have over time hooked up with men who lived in various areas of Joburg. Often I have driven these guys to their home after our meet-up, as public transport is not good.
“Example: driving around Soweto/Doornfontein at 2am or 3am in the morning, and I have had no bad experiences at all. In fact I have had only very good experiences, which included being stopped by police in Soweto to do a breathalyser test, and having an amazing friendly hour-plus chat with the officer.
“Having said all of this, I am not stupid. I try to be very careful, and never to put myself in a position that I cannot easily get out of. Walking – someone is behind me – I cross to the other side of the road. Driving – someone is too close to me, I slow down, speed up – whatever it takes for me to be out of the immediate vicinity of others. This is what I would do in all places – London/NYC/Rio de Janeiro/Washington, DC/Nice/Napoli/Hong Kong.
“I had an attempted mugging on my very first day of my first ever visit to NYC. The only two places I have ever felt unsafe are Memphis and Nairobi.
“While I understand that I am not resident in South Africa, and may no longer have full awareness of the crime situation, I feel that many South Africans put themselves in the line of fire by driving cars that are expensive/big/ostentatious and basically just almost scream: Look at me! I’m RICH, come rob me!
“I typically have rented/driven the cheapest/smallest/oldest car I could find! While I am here – please let me thank you for your very entertaining column, which I thoroughly enjoy reading.”
Let’s broaden the debate. We want to hear more views from Johannesburg residents about how safe your city is. Or unsafe. Write to me here. DM