Clarens charms both its residents and visitors

Driving to the bohemian and quaint little town of Clarens from Johannesburg offers peace of mind – first because the roads are pretty good, but also because of the farm views and majestic Maloti Mountains, which instantly have a relaxing effect. The mountain range extends from Lesotho (Maloti is the Sesotho word for “in the mountains”) to the Drakensberg.

Arriving mid-morning on a Friday, the town felt like it was still coming to life. So we stopped at a pretty little restaurant called The Treat, situated right at the town’s entrance. With its babbling fountain, attractive garden area and big windows, I could easily see myself spending many hours there. The staff were attentive and friendly, and the food was delicious and good value for money.

About 300m up the main road is where the town pretty much centres on the four-corner green square. Lining the streets are arts and crafts shops, curio stalls, coffee shops, restaurants, an ice-cream parlour, craft beer establishments, guest houses, art galleries as well as the police station, a real estate agency and the municipal office. Wire cars and metal sculptures are displayed on the pavements.

The town roads are fine, though some are not tarred. This speaks to the town’s vibe and people, who are mainly farmers, artisans and owners of the various establishments. Weekends and holiday periods are definitely when out-of-towners descend.

The township is about 2.5km away. It is an eyesore of makeshift shacks and matchbox houses that look mismatched against the picturesque beauty of the mountains. My partner and I stopped at a barbershop inside a shipping container, where he got a brush cut from a jovial barber named Enoch.

Of course, getting a haircut wasn’t as straightforward as one is used to in Johannesburg, as Enoch only accepted cash. He directed us to the corner shop next door, where we could tap our card in return for cash. We paid him his R40, an exchange we found quite amusing.

Enoch is slight in stature, but lively and engaging. Sitting in his shop, we enjoyed his reggae beats while he animatedly told us about life in the town. He said he had moved to Clarens 16 years ago and was actually a qualified photographer and videographer. However, it was difficult to find enough job opportunities in the field to sustain himself.

He said Clarens is a peaceful town with a low crime rate, and the few incidents that did occur were not perpetrated by locals. He said he enjoyed living there and that small-town living was much cheaper than living in a city like Johannesburg. “If you have about R6,000 to R7,000, you can live,” Enoch said.

After shooting the breeze with Enoch and getting the haircut, we settled in at our accommodation before making our way back to the square. By now it was evening, so we went for some beer tasting and dinner at Clarens Brewery, where we enjoyed mingling with the other patrons. The atmosphere was vibrant, with people of all ages casually walking between the various establishments.

Having taken the town in the next day, we deliberated on how liveable it was, and the answer is: it depends. If quaint, artisanal and artistic vibes are what you’re looking for, then sure it is. If you are looking for beautiful natural scenery and outdoor activity, then there is plenty of that to enjoy.

If you are looking for diversity and genuine intercultural living side by side, however, then you may struggle because that kind of mix seems to only breeze into town on weekends and over the holidays.

Also, if you enjoy the comforts of supermarket retailers and chain stores, you will struggle, although the bigger town of Bethlehem is just 36km away and will cater to those needs.

The other issue is that of water, which the municipality switches off between 7pm and 5.30am daily, and sometimes during the day too. This, according to the Department of Water and Sanitation, is because of an undersized treatment plant, the dependency on the Lesotho Highlands Water Project, which has experienced shutdowns, and failing infrastructure, all of which lead to frequent nighttime cuts and unreliable supply.

Our accommodation host also cautioned against drinking the tap water because it could not be vouched for, so we had bottled water during our stay.

Runners-up

In the Free State, the charm of a small town is determined by whether it has a vibrant community, great energy and even how peaceful it is.

Rosendal has a village vibe and a diverse community that is welcoming. “Rosendal embodies the laid-back vibe of a rural country town,” says resident Una van der Vyver, who voted for the town. Each shop and restaurant has its own unique story. However, she says it would be great for Rosendal to have more than one general grocery store.

Fouriesburg is also a warm and hospitable town, located where the R711 and R26 meet in the east of the Free State.

Parys is another small town well worth visiting if you’re a tourist. It is situated next to the Vaal River and has many activities associated with the river, as well as touristy shops, restaurants and cafés.

However, as in many other Free State towns, the residents of Parys have been subjected to a failing municipality that has a dismal record of providing services such as water and electricity, and the roads are filled with potholes.

The town does have a large selection of shops for locals, though, and it even has a smart Woolworths Food and Checkers situated in a newly built centre, so development is taking place. – Onthatile Mahlangu/DM

This story first appeared in our weekly DM168 newspaper, available countrywide for R35.