Jeffreys Bay is much more than just a holiday spot for surfers

The skateboard clatters across the concrete, rattling over the worn ramps. The man riding it isn’t wearing fancy threads – in fact, they’re a little shabby – but the smile on his face is infectious.

He hops off his board when I ask, “What’s it like to live in Jeffreys Bay?”

“The very best place,” he says. “I was homeless for a while. So you know, if a homeless person says it’s good, it really is.” That’s a tough statement to argue with.

Behind us, the wind carries the smell of salt from the sea and the laughter of children drifting from the nearby beach. In a town famed for world-class waves and holiday homes, it’s easy to forget that Jeffreys Bay is more than a holiday spot.

For about 40,000 people (give or take – a recent census is hard to find) it is home. Almost everyone you talk to will tell you that what makes JBay special, beyond the sun and surf, of course, are the people who live there.

It also comes with people who are humble. Like Ilgran Grobelar, my skate park friend. He tells me he fell on hard times and lived on the streets, but with a little help from the townsfolk, he’s working again. He’s surfing and skating again too.

Last weekend, Grobelar attended his friend Samuel’s funeral.

“The first black man to surf in JBay,” he tells me. I can’t verify it, but it’s said with such pride that it feels true in spirit. Grobelar is like a lot of JBay locals: understated, real, honest.

They show up with an unmistakable pride and a strong sense of community. You see it when you talk to cashiers in garage shops and waiters in restaurants, or notice the little oddities around town that make it special – like the bakkie on the beach painted with a “Lelik but Lekker (Ugly but Lovely)” logo. It’s a local chef’s van, but in some ways it might as well be the town motto: a little rough around the edges, self-aware and unapologetically itself.

Walk down the main street and it hits you fast: restaurants spill onto the pavement, little huts sell shells, “I love JBay” T-shirts and surfing lessons, and everyone greets you. The main street is cute and quirky, a little like the many barefoot people walking around, their long hair whipping in the wind.

And then there are the people who make the town weirdly wonderful. Andy Thuysman is 75 but looks younger, and his eyes sparkle when he talks about his town and business. His shop smells of leather and sunshine. He started it decades ago, measuring surfers’ feet on the beach to make the shoes he is now known for.

Down on the beachfront, I met Libby Moon at her little hut, chatting with a youngster. She seemed to know everything and everyone, and filled me in on the many wonderful people quietly building the community.

At Joshua Project, kids at risk find somewhere safe to hang out. The J-Bay Recycling Project is a place where plastic is swapped for essentials, and kids learn the power of small actions.

The Lighthouse supports women and children escaping abuse, and Timion helps disabled children with therapy and adaptive devices. Dorp van Drome volunteers put up signs along roads, reminding drivers to slow down for wildlife and children. Animal rescue initiatives are also a big thing. These small acts together create the steady heartbeat of the town.

Not too many streets away from Grobelar and Moon, I found Alan Maposa, a Zimbabwean immigrant working at The Pottery. He’s learnt to surf in JBay. As he smiled and told me how much he loved the town, I watched a young couple painting mugs. They told me that Jeffreys is one of the best towns in the country.

The young man who works at Tasty Table said he couldn’t imagine living elsewhere, and his coworker, a 19-year-old, said she walked wherever she liked, whenever she liked, in the town she loves.

For many, the relatively inexpensive housing, ample shopping and good schools are a drawcard – though an affordable public high school is still needed. New job opportunities can also be hard to find.

The municipality is generally well respected, and the newly filled-in potholes show efforts are being made. But of course, more still needs to be done, and crime rears its head from time to time.

Neighbourhood watches are hard at work, and people keep an eye on their neighbours. On the beaches, pink buoys are placed so anyone who runs into trouble in the sea can be helped. On some of those beaches that stretch forever and ever, buckets and black bags with signs suggest that people can pitch in for litter pick-up – if they want to.

I think part of Jeffreys Bay’s secret is that it doesn’t pretend to be perfect. It just tries to be better. And that always makes for good living.

Runners-up

Rhodes is one of the country’s most scenic mountain villages. It offers dramatic vistas, crisp mountain air and a sense of isolation that draws hikers, trout fishers and nature lovers. It has just a few hundred permanent residents and is famed for its welcoming, tight-knit community.

A mix of relaxed coastal charm, natural beauty, abundant wildlife and recreational options makes St Francis Bay a compelling destination for families, couples and nature lovers alike.

Nieu‑Bethesda is a small, quiet Karoo village where time seems to move at a slower pace. Known for its artistic heritage, the village draws visitors to The Owl House, while birdwatchers, stargazers and nature enthusiasts are attracted by the clear night skies and seasonal wildflowers. It is also a hub for walkers, photographers and cyclists, and many local tourist endeavours cater to them.

Hogsback is set amid lush indigenous forests and rugged peaks that have inspired writers, artists and spiritual seekers for years. Residents enjoy its calm atmosphere, and many are keen gardeners or take part in outdoor activities such as hiking and mountain biking. DM

This story first appeared in our weekly DM168 newspaper, available countrywide for R35.