Framed by the unmistakeable silhouette of Mount Legogote, which resembles a reclining lion with its head raised, White River is defined by lush vegetation, a vibrant and close-knit community and enviable Lowveld weather.
“We feel safe living under the watchful sentinel of Legogote Mountain, and of course the Kruger National Park is right on our doorstep,” says resident Celia Breed.
“Don’t forget the White River Country Club for some golf, or Klipkopje Dam, which is ideal for watersport or fishing,” adds her husband Jan.
Set just north of Mbombela, White River offers a slower pace of life without sacrificing convenience. Within minutes there are excellent schools, major shopping centres and the Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport. “We don’t have the traffic, but we do have all the amenities,” says Hitesh Motiram, the owner of Nakuls clothing store, who was instantly drawn to the town’s gentler way of living.
White River takes its name from the whitish kaolin-rich water in the river that skirts the town. It was established after the South African War as a settlement for former British soldiers; however, this scheme failed and it developed into a farming town.
Walking is the best way to experience White River, and everything is close by.
As resident Dr Matluli Mdhluli says: “Everything is within walking distance. We are a walking community.”
During a walkabout, one is struck by the pothole-free streets, neatly trimmed parks and well-kept sidewalks. This level of care doesn’t happen on its own. Pensioner Jaco Booyens cuts the grass in all five parks every 10 days, and ward councillor Rowan Torr works with the City of Mbombela’s waste department to ensure the streets are swept and the gutters cleared.
According to Rhodes Abell, chairperson of The Power of 8000, a local community activist group, the town’s service levels are rooted in a strong working relationship between its volunteers, the municipality and the White River Ratepayers Association.
The Power of 8000 was launched in 2021 when residents began noticing the town’s decline. “The only way forward was to take responsibility ourselves,” says Abell.
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Three years later, the results are visible everywhere. Local businesses have stepped in too, including Westvaal White River Isuzu, which donated a brand-new bakkie to help the group.
The town’s friendly, community-oriented spirit is unmistakable. “The people are fantastic; they care about one another. It’s really a village,” says resident Yvonne McHeath, founder of Care Buddies, an organisation that supports elderly folk.
Mdhluli echoes this sentiment: “Here you feel like you’re in a village, albeit a modernised one. What I love is that we are a multicultural community by choice. We choose to live together.”
Accessible and fun
White River is well connected for a small town. Driving to Johannesburg takes about four-and-a-half hours via the N4 toll road. For a more scenic trip, the Panorama Route leads to waterfalls, forests and the towns of Graskop, Sabie, Kaapsehoop and Hazyview.
The airport is 10 minutes away and offers affordable direct flights to Johannesburg, Cape Town and Victoria Falls. “We’ve got one of the most unique airports in the world,” says guesthouse owner Lucille de Villiers. “It has the largest thatched roof in Africa and a beautiful design that blends into the bushveld surroundings.”
White River is rich in local lore. Phat Boys Beer House on the main street was once a parsonage – a church house provided for a member of the clergy. Outside its front stands a magnificent wild fig planted in 1985 that now provides ideal shade for watching the Springboks on the big screen or joining the monthly quiz evenings.
Among the pub’s traditions is its infamous Extreme Hammer Challenge. Participants, wearing a hard-shell army hat, are smacked on the head with various objects – including a baseball bat and a spade – while drinking four shooters. And though one would expect them to get a migraine, the bar staff says “participants remain unharmed”.
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Activities
Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre is the heartbeat of the town with its movie theatre, transport museum, art gallery, restaurants and lively weekend market. In season, it offers berry-picking too.
“I’ve found such a strong sense of community here. You arrive and people know you; they greet you. It feels like I’m not far from home at all,” says Michelle Potgieter, a recent arrival who works at Valley Spice.
“The community is super supportive and friendly towards me, and I’m always busy, whether exhibiting at markets or teaching people to make their own Christmas decorations,” says Edwin Zingoma, owner of Edwin’s Wild Wire Creations, a thriving craft shop in the centre.
In the restrooms there’s a sign on the mirror that sums up the White River ethos: “Leave only good vibes and a clean space behind.”
Runners-up
About 30km southwest of Mbombela, shrouded in mist and famous for its wild horses, lies Kaapsehoop. At Nagkantoor Pub, Potlood the dog keeps a vigilant eye on the door, while up the road someone is tying the knot in the chapel. Life here moves at a blissfully slow pace – no popping out for milk unless you’re on good terms with a neighbour.
Along the Panorama Route, 71 km from White River, sits Graskop, the Lowveld’s tourist overachiever. Tour buses idle outside Harry’s Pancakes; children plead for a turn on the Glass Lift.
But look past the postcard images at God’s Window, and you’ll see why the Auditor–General has flagged backlogs in water, electricity and road maintenance.
Dullstroom, Mpumalanga’s fly-fishing capital, perches on the Highveld. Weekenders flock here for tourist delights, while locals humble-brag about improvements since Drive Dullstroom’s Destiny took charge of service delivery.
Near the KwaZulu-Natal border, Wakkerstroom is the province’s second-
oldest town. Birders love converging on this serene Highveld haven. DM
This story first appeared in our weekly DM168 newspaper, available countrywide for R35.
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Zani White River (Photograph: Supplied by the author)