If you had to compare Gqeberha’s city centre now to what it used to look like in the early 1900s, it would be nearly unrecognisable.
Many historic buildings have been levelled to make room for modern office blocks, and many landmarks still standing have deteriorated because of the passage of time and lack of care.
But a near-pristine example of early Victorian Gothic architecture still stands on the old town square and is a testament to the old saying: they don’t make them like they used to.
Known simply as the Main Library, renewed efforts are being made to restore the grand old lady to her former glory and reopen her to the people of Gqeberha and visitors alike.
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While the building was officially opened in July 1902, the library’s history dates back several more decades and across various locations to when it started in 1844 as the Port Elizabeth News Society.
The society initially rented a room above a shop in Jetty Street and provided members with newspapers and magazines from England before building a small collection of books.
In 1845 it rented space in the Commercial Hall and slowly bought up everyone’s shares in the building. The library later moved to another location and rented its premises to the local government as a court house.
Later, the Commercial Hall was demolished to make way for the current Main Library building, which opened its doors in 1902.
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“Over the decades the library has been fortunate to have several dedicated librarians to look after the building and historic collections it holds,” Carol Victor, the librarian heading up the Special Collections section, said.
“At this stage we are not completely sure how many books the Main Library has, and the collection, spanning centuries, is truly priceless.”
While the entire building is currently occupied by the library, Victor said it was initially split into two sections. The upper portion, known as the Savage Memorial Hall with its own side entrance, housed the library. The main entrance and the lower floors of the building were used as office space, with one section once occupied by the Port Elizabeth Chamber Commerce – the predecessor of the current Nelson Mandela Bay Business Chamber.
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Entering the library feels like a scene from a fantasy film. You are met by a circular desk in the middle of the main floor space, serving as a sort of panopticon from where librarians can keep an eye on visitors in every corner of the ground floor and the two tiers of balconies above it.
High above the central desk is a stained glass dome serving as a beautiful decorative piece and a skylight, allowing natural light to flood into the open space.
Off the main hall are several smaller chambers, some for specialist topics with their own reading spaces, and each room is adorned with more stained glass installed during the initial construction.
All the interior wooden fixtures in the Savage Memorial Hall, including the balconies and shelving, as well as the metal balustrades and shelf brackets, are still the original pieces imported from England when the library was built more than a century ago.
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Victor said the books were donated or bought over decades, and some of the historic volumes formed part of private collections that were gifted to the library. When asked to name some of the most significant pieces in the library, she said it would be impossible to single out anything specific.
“The library has some incredible old family Bibles, newspapers on English and African history, and a rare collection of books, reports and artefacts from the maritime industry dating back to the 1800s. Each topic has its own significance and each collection is invaluable,” Victor said.
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The library was closed to the public 12 years ago because of health and safety concerns, and a multi-phase refurbishment was started soon afterwards. Proposals included repairs to the roof, better fire safety equipment, improved lighting and the construction of an additional wing.
While some of these improvements have been done, it is unclear when the project will be completed, or when the library – still deemed a construction site – will be reopened to the public.
However, since 2023, the Main Library Friends (MLF), a volunteer interest group supporting the library, has had special permission to bring tour groups from visiting cruise ships to the library.
“And it seems that word spread, because soon we had local residents tagging along with our international tour groups. There is renewed interest in the Main Library, and we love showing off this historic site,” MLF chairperson Graham Taylor said.
Taylor, who also chairs the local Historic Society, said the MLF came about as a way to bring attention back to one of Gqeberha’s biggest historic assets.
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“The Main Library is in essence the historic heart of Gqeberha, as an historic landmark and as a resource with information about the past. It is crucial that it be preserved and be accessible to the public.”
Taylor said the idea to arrange tours for visitors from cruise ships was centred on Algoa Bay’s historic significance for maritime trade, and tied in perfectly with the theme of tourists travelling to Nelson Mandela Bay by ship.
“We are trying to grow interest in the library and other historic landmarks around the city, but for that to happen, these landmarks need to be preserved. Sadly, this does not seem to be a top priority for government departments, so we are dependent on donations and private funding for much of what we are trying to achieve,” Taylor said.
The MLF is assisting in upgrading some of the lighting in the main library hall, but it hopes to do more to preserve the landmark.
Victor said the library is not fully open to the public, for safety and security reasons, but special arrangements can be made to allow visitors by appointment.
“For older residents visiting the library it’s nostalgic and takes them back to their younger days. And it is astounding to see the look on the faces of younger generations, who have lived here their whole lives but who have never seen the inside of the library. For them it is like being transported to another world,” Victor said. DM
While it's been closed to the public for more than a decade, life is slowly being breathed back into the Gqeberha Main Library. (Photos: Klaas Kingma)