Oranges and lemons and the alluring product made from them, James van Hasselt’s award-winning marmalade. (Photo: Sue Adams)
Prince Albert in the Karoo punches above its weight in the arts and is renowned for excellent cheese, olive oil and olives, but something else is stirring.
James van Hasselt, a marmalade maker in this beloved Karoo village, has received a Silver award in the 2025 World Marmalade Awards, the biggest marmalade competition in the world.
Dalemain is a country house in the UK, which hosts the unofficial world championships of marmalade and raises thousands of pounds for charity. Judging is rigorous and standards are incredibly high, receiving over 3,000 entries worldwide, prominently from Japan and Australia, but also Hawaii, Hong Kong, South Korea and now, South Africa.
James van Hasselt’s marmalade scored 27 out of a possible 30 points from a panel of expert judges.
James thinks the competition is a great opportunity to highlight an additional attraction of this remarkable Karoo town.
/file/dailymaverick/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/james-van-hasselt.jpg "James van Hasselt at work with his winning marmalade. (Photo: Sue Adams)")
“We have several passionate marmalade makers who produce outstanding preserves. We can really put another spotlight on Prince Albert by competing internationally.”
He told me that Prince Albert is the perfect place to make marmalade.
“It has abundant sunshine, and pristine mountain water to produce superb organic citrus, including Seville oranges which are arguably the Holy Grail of marmalade fruit.”
In South Africa, we grew up with Rose’s Lime and All Gold Orange Marmalade, but there are infinite styles.
“Many people evolve to appreciate bitter Seville flavours, but there’s a huge range of individual preferences and exotic marmalades. Bergamot, Honey Grapefruit, Kumquat and Tahiti limes are just a few unusual citrus varieties that find favour with enthusiasts.
“And the possibilities of ingredients such as ginger and chilli, or rum, gin and whisky-spiked marmalades can add wonderful character,” says James.
I meet James at home in the pretty Karoo village where his kitchen is a delight, with piles of beautiful citrus and a delicious scent of orange, lemon and lime zest. Pots bubble and steam rises.
There’s a bottle of whisky next to the stove. I raise an eyebrow and James laughs.
“I’m trying to see how much whisky a batch will take without affecting the set,” he says with a twinkle in his eye. “Whisky mellows the bitter notes and rounds out the flavour.”
Making marmalade is time consuming and tricky. Each batch takes 4 to 6 hours of effort spread out over two days. If it’s undercooked it doesn’t set and if the temperature is too high for too long, the set becomes hard, and a taste of burnt sugar comes through.
“There’s a critical point where you retain delicious bright citrus flavours with a bit of caramelised zest. The best result can be an intense, complex, lingering flavour like a good wine,” says James, holding out a teaspoon for me to taste.
“It can also be a complete miss with unpleasant, overly bitter flavours or cloying sweet syrup.”
Individual preferences and marmalade variations are endless. Some people prefer fine cut, others chunky, and one friend of James’, “bless his misguided soul, likes marmalade without the ‘bits’”.
When I ask if it’s only to be eaten with toast for breakfast, James becomes even more animated.
“Marmalade is wonderful with scones and cream, and it makes a great baste for roast duck or pork belly. If you’re adventurous, add a spoonful when you shake up a whisky sour for a spectacular cocktail.”
It seems to me that whisky is a recurring theme here.
Branded as Jackal and Wolf, James’ marmalade is available at Gay’s Dairy Shop in the town. And it flies off the shelves, so keep a sharp lookout.
There are plans afoot for a marmalade festival in Prince Albert, says James. The “orange thread” that stretches around the world is weaving its way into Prince Albert’s colourful tapestry. DM