The artistry of the brew is being transformed on the streets of Mzansi

Flat white, red cappuccino and cortado are just a few of the speciality coffees available in South Africa, the country that is transforming the artistry of the brew. 

While the Rainbow Nation is known for its amapiano, braai, rugby and wine, coffee is becoming part of the country’s culture as evidenced by the increase in Black-owned coffee companies and shops.

The cultural hub of Fox Street in Maboneng, Johannesburg, is the site of the perfect coffee shop to fuel your walks around the block. Two shih tzu mixes wait on the counter and, whether they will bark at you or not depends on their mood. 

From Dannhauser, KwaZulu-Natal, Bongani Ndlovu, the creator, director and barista at Uncle Merv’s, waits on customers seven days a week, those who are ready for a cup of coffee as well as tourists eager to learn about the artwork on display. A coffee and art enthusiast, Ndlovu has been the source of adrenaline at the coffee shop at 278 Fox Street for the past five years. He and his wife, Thobeka Msomi, supply art through their Angoni Art Gallery.

After hanging out with my new friend, Bonga Zungu at CURIOCITY, a travel lodging and lounging spot for locals and tourists, he introduced me to the coffee shop. In case you are wondering, the dogs never barked at me; they must have sensed I have my own dog at home, a mischievous yet loving beagle named Kash. 

While coffee is the most advertised beverage at Uncle Merv’s, sugar-free smoothies are also available. Vintage bicycles offer a chance to explore the urban streets before or after a cup of coffee. Though the shop no longer sells food, the comforting coffee, artwork, chatty dogs and of course, conversations with Ndlovu are enough to fuel your day. 

I remember trying my first coffee at Uncle Merv’s. Ndlovu allowed Bonga and me to sample the first cup of coffee ground with Arabica beans before adding a secret spice on top.

I had already grown to become a fan of the coffee in South Africa, one of the many things such as the food, wine, and of course, the people; so it was only fitting that I visited one more coffee shop on my last day in Joburg. After finding the first shop closed, I thought Uncle Merv’s should have been the first place to try. 

Ndlovu was in his usual position – chatting to customers. The two dogs were lying on the counter, and as before, no barking. As I observed the artwork in the open-air kiosk, I decided to order a cup of coffee and ask for an impromptu interview. But before that, Ndlovu convinced me to purchase an artwork, which he claimed was better than buying food because at least I could frame the artwork. Fair enough. 

The artwork that I bought was by the Mbombela-born sculptor and contemporary artist Sifiso Mkhabela. The more I stare at the acrylic paint on canvas titled “Look”, the more I am certain I can see the bridge of a tiger’s nose as the shape of the person’s ear, but maybe that’s just me. Ndlovu described Mkhabela’s art as if he were defending his dissertation. The man loves art and I appreciate his enthusiasm. 

“Above and beyond coffee, we have explicit and exclusive art that we sell here. An art gallery within the coffee shop. So come by and get the best therapy, which is people watching,” Ndlovu said. 

Before Ndlovu gave me my cup of coffee, I recorded some behind-the-scenes content for my freelancing publication, FUSION, to represent the narratives of the Black diaspora. I watched Ndlovu prepare the froth and add the secret spice on top of the coffee and milk mixture. But the coffee wasn’t quite finished. Ndlovu asked me what he should write on the cup. I’m so used to having my name written on Starbucks drinks that I simply said, “Naomi”, but that wasn’t enough for the creative Ndlovu.

“No, you need something that sums up your experience in South Africa,” Ndlovu said.

While it might have taken some people some time to think of what to write, I knew exactly what to say. During my first night in Jozi, I joined Zungu and his friends for a night out. 

A person in the group said I needed a South African name. Seconds later, someone shouted “Zanele”, and they all agreed in unison. Curious, I asked what the name meant, and my heart was full. The Zulu name means “more than enough”, and if that name doesn’t sum up my experience in South Africa, I don’t know what else will. Ndlovu wrote my new name on the cup and placed it back on the counter for me to take a photo. 

If you are ever in Maboneng, Uncle Merv’s can be described in fewer than 10 short words: “Serving good people, good coffee with 100% Arabica beans,” to quote Ndlovu.

From the streets of Maboneng to Stellenbosch, good coffee, but most importantly, good people who make you feel comfortable can be found in any corner or city of South Africa. 

During my internship at the CoCreate Hub in Stellenbosch, I would enjoy a cup of coffee at least once a week from CoffeeMM,which uplifts small-scale farmers to grow the local economy. From the iced coffee flavours to the roasted beans, coffee lovers can explore their coffee curiosity, and coffee enthusiasts can learn more about the brewing process through the company’s services.

CoffeeMM offers artisan roasts such as espresso, mocha and Americano. The shop is opposite a cozy work space that overlooks the courtyard and customers can even walk over to the sunroom at the front of the CoCreate Hub for some natural light. I used to enjoy watching the barista, Jodene Philander, tap the froth milk mix on the counter before swirling the cup around as she poured the cool contents into the hot coffee. While not as strong as the flat white, the red cappuccino was the perfect dose of creaminess and honey. 

Johannesburg coffee guru Mhlengi Ngcobo, who founded CoffeeMM, has built a thriving coffee brand with premium products and authentic coffee beans. Before Ngcobo began his company, he was studying civil engineering at Stellenbosch University. He became interested in starting a coffee company at the age of 22. But it wasn’t that simple: when he was in high school, he was diagnosed with early-onset hypertension and was advised to stay away from coffee. Despite his condition, he was inspired to challenge the doctors’ caffeine guidelines. During his studies, he took a project management course to help him understand South Africa’s coffee market and has since built a space for agro-economic empowerment. 

The slogan for CoffeeMM is “empowering small coffee farmers”. The coffee shop in Stellenbosch has empowered locals supplying coffee to energise their days while providing opportunities for employment.

“What inspired me to start my business was the idea that I just wanted to be financially free. I wanted to start a business that would empower myself to be in a better financial position and ultimately create opportunities for others and I think we have been able to do that,” Ngcobo said.

Coffee shops aren’t just a spot to try out new flavours and get some work done, but also a safe space for conversations to be had. 

“Making coffee is not always just about making coffee and then giving it to customers and then they pay and then they go. It’s also about building a relationship, making people feel comfortable. Coffee shops are a place where people can come and just focus on what they are trying to do for the day or if they want to feel at home,” Philander told me.

Philander has been working at CoffeeMM for six months. I enjoyed my weekly conversations with her; she taught me a great deal of South Africa’s history, the culture of Stellenbosch and of course, the basics of coffee.

CoffeeMM offers three study courses for baristas such as Philander to improve their coffee-making and hospitality skills. The coffee roasting course includes coffee sorting and roasting while the hospitality training focuses on interpersonal skills like customer service. Philander’s training and friendly persona allow her to build genuine relationships with customers. Sometimes, on cold winter days, when she saw me editing stories she would walk over and ask if I would want a cup of hot chocolate. Whether it was the hot cup or warm conversations, I looked forward to ordering a cup at least once a week. 

“There’s people that come every day, the regular customers. If I see them, I already know what they want to order, they don’t even have to come here to ask me,” Philander said. 

Philander hopes to open her own restaurant, and seeing Ngcobo work to build his brand serves as inspiration for her to reach her own goals one day.

“It is very inspiring to see how entrepreneurs reach their goals– their short-term and long-term goals. It is very encouraging for people that are trying to become their own bosses and start their own businesses,” Philander said. 

CoffeeMM hosts an annual Battle of the Baristas, a coffee-making competition which started in 2023 allowing local baristas to put their coffee-crafting skills to the test, with coffee enthusiasts as the judges. Baristas have the opportunity to showcase their flavour profiles, pouring their passion into a cup.

If you’re not the best brewer but are passionate about coffee and community, CoffeeMM offers individuals the opportunity to become brand ambassadors. Brand ambassadors will promote the company’s products, collaborate with the team and network with other coffee lovers. 

CoffeeMM also offers ethical, premium and sustainable products for coffee connoisseurs who appreciate the craft of the bean-to-brew process, CoffeeMM has eight bean options such as Murchison Mist from Uganda and African Alchemy, which includes a blend from Kenya’s Mount Elgon. By supporting African coffee farmers and offering  a curated selection of raw coffee beans, CoffeeMM strives to empower small-scale farmers and uplift not only the local economy, but that of African countries such Burundi, Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda.

Since founding his coffee brand, Ngcobo has been featured in Forbes Africa 30 Under 30 in 2023. He has had an impact not only on the coffee market, but also the South African and local economy. From the start of his small-scale artisan roastery in 2017, the award-winning coffee company is still focused on one of its original goals, creating quality products. 

“We, as small businesses, shouldn’t rely on people supporting us; we should rather rely on creating a premium product that really changes people’s lives so that people will then buy,” Ngcobo said. DM