Rustic Punjabi chicken dhaba curry

If ever I were lucky enough to visit India, I would want to travel north to the Punjabi region. Some of the finest curries I have ever eaten were Punjabi, but sadly I have only been able to taste them from afar.

The fact that the Punjab area covers parts of Pakistan as well as northern India also appeals – I appreciate the thought that cultures can cross boundaries – though the downside of this, of course, is the potential for political strife. But this is food and we push those thoughts to one side in this safe space.

As with many southern Indian dishes, this curry involves the Indian idea of a “gravy”. Which is unlike the British idea of what that word refers to. Rather than a sauce that is built out of the juices and fats of meat, this kind of gravy is chiefly about spices. The main carrier here is yoghurt, although the juices from the chicken do play a role.

Recently I bought some kashmiri chilli powder at a Durban spice shop. I pounced on it, because now and then I encounter kashmiri chilli powder as an ingredient when browsing recipes. So I grabbed some “just in case”.

This, in fact, is what led to my finding recipes for dhaba curries, which are cooked at the roadside in the Punjab. I can only imagine the aromas that must waft towards you as you exit your car and walk towards the stall where steaming pots of dhaba curries surely bewitch your senses.

I can dream, can’t I? Or I could make this and imagine I’m right there…

Ingredients

12 chicken thighs and drumsticks (in any combination)

2 Tbsp lemon juice

½ tsp salt

125ml plain yoghurt

1 tsp garam masala or similar (I used a Durban mix)

2 Tbsp cooking oil

1 Tbsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp red chilli powder

1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder (or use an extra tsp of red chilli powder)

1 tsp crushed black peppercorns

2 tsp cumin seeds

4 cloves

1 tsp ground cardamom

A little warm water

For the gravy:

1 Tbsp cooking oil

1 bay leaf

3 dried red chillies, crushed

1 large white onion, sliced

1 large tomato, chopped

5 cm fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 tsp salt

2 Tbsp ghee (I made my own)

Coriander leaves, optional, for garnish

Method

Slice gashes through the flesh of the thighs and drumsticks. (Use any combination of them – 4 of one, 2 of another, or 3 of each, as you like.)

Rub them all over with lemon juice and salt them lightly. Leave them aside while you continue.

In another small bowl, whisk the yoghurt with the masala. Leave it to one side.

Add the dry spices to a third small bowl, add a little warm water, stir and keep aside.

In a deep, heavy pan (in which you’ll cook your curry), heat 2 Tbsp cooking oil and add a bay leaf and the crushed chillies. Add the onions and sauté gently until they brown. Let them brown quite well as this caramelisation is a part of the flavour profile.

Add the chicken, the spices in their water, and season with salt. Stir to combine.

Add the tomato, ginger and garlic. 

Combine everything and cover the pot with a lid. Stir to combine and put the lid on.

Simmer on a low heat for 20 to 25 minutes. Stir now and then so that it does not catch.

Add the spiced yoghurt and stir for a couple of minutes until everything is well combined.

Continue cooking on a very low heat for 8 minutes or so.

Finally, stir in 2 Tbsp of ghee to enrich the gravy.

Garnish with chopped coriander if you like. DM

Tony Jackman is twice winner of the Galliova Food Writer of the Year award, in 2021 and 2023.

Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.

This dish is photographed on a plate by Mervyn Gers Ceramics.