How an American learnt to love the braai

In the States, we refer to cooking over a flame as a barbecue. I have fond memories of going to my aunts’ homes in either Piscataway, New Jersey, or Easton, Pennsylvania, for an evening barbecue. Whether it was a birthday party, or my favourite, just an excuse to get together or what my Trinidadian family would say, lime. 

The car ride to Piscataway is about 40 minutes from my family’s home in New Jersey and then another 40 minutes to Easton. My pre-teen brain couldn’t keep up with all of the highways and exits as either my aunt or father would weave through traffic, but once I noticed certain landmarks – the cursed lot of land that never seems to be occupied by a restaurant for long in Piscataway and the shopping centre in Easton right off the highway – I was ready to unbuckle my seat belt and dash towards the door to greet my family and start the festivities. 

Though barbecuing in my family has its own meaning, in South Africa the five-letter Afrikaans word (braai) holds culture, history and passion. The way South Africans define a braai mesmerises you. It is typically described with enthusiasm that excites someone who is not familiar with the traditional practice of cooking over a flame, entices you to want to start the flame yourself and drop an invite in the family or friend chat for an evening of bonding. I soon learnt that braaing can happen at any point in the day, rain or shine.

A braai isn’t just your casual cookout. The pronunciation perfectly rolls off the tongues of South Africans. The emphasis on the letter “r” elongates the one-syllable word. The open flame creates its own ambiance and perhaps a braai is unique to each person. Yet one thing is for sure, it is a cultural reminder that brings many comfort as they walk over to the grill with cooking utensils in hand and meats thawed as guests sit around the flames laughing or talking. 

The outdoor cooking can be for small or large gatherings. I wouldn’t be surprised if the country’s most enthusiastic braaier, braais on the grill for one. Though I am sure the large wood-fire smoke would send a signal to someone who would ultimately invite themselves and the South African hospitable nature would probably find it difficult to decline. 

Living in Kayamandi, Stellenbosch, I learnt that braaing is present in all cultures in the country. In the Xhosa culture a braai is called ukosa. The cool wind from Cape Town can’t extinguish the burning desire for a winter braai in the township. On the morning or late-afternoon drive from my internship in town, I am sure to see a group of people huddled together around the grill, laughing and talking. It doesn’t matter how big or small your grill is, braaing culture is in the blood and bones of South Africans.

I have this theory that depending on what month you were born in you might prefer a certain climate. Other factors like place of birth and where you grew up can also determine your weather preferences. But that theory may not apply in South Africa during the winter season, or any season for that matter as the peninsula determines its mood for the day and not my astrological assumptions. But if you are still curious, at the next braai, ask your guests and test my theory. Results may vary.

So when TGIFood editor, and my mentor during my internship with Daily Maverick, Tony Jackman invited me to an open-flame dining experience, I was eager to watch the traditional South African cooking experience unfold before my eyes. Though you can braai at any given time, for my Caribbean blood it was a perfect day for a braai, a sunny day with occasional wind. The sun hit every tree and my brown skin was glowing. 

Tony and I had met earlier in the morning. I had accompanied him, as on most of our outings, but this time to a wholesaler site called Wild Peacock, in Stellenbosch. I even tried oysters for the first and perhaps last time after I learnt later from Tony that the oysters were alive. My lack of oyster knowledge probably stems from my previous stance that I would never try an oyster (stay tuned for my next story). 

Before coming to South Africa I was warned by locals and even friends about not just South African cuisine, but African cuisine in general. Questions like, “You do know South Africa is a meat-loving country?” or “What are you going to eat?” were often asked when I politely turned down different poultry options. But now that I have been here for almost three weeks, I am more concerned about the fluctuating weather than what I might read on a menu. However, it does help that Tony has considerately shared my dietary restrictions with each restaurant. 

I hopped in the car with Tony after we ended our cheese, bread and cured meats tasting experience at Wild Peacock followed by a tour of the facility. Tony drove about 15 minutes from the site onto Remhoogte wine farm, home of VUUR. We sat in the car until our appointment and I listened to Tony share stories from his life such as his love for the Karoo and his childhood. 

Soon after, his friend Ian Downie joined us and the three of us walked over to the lobby of VUUR. A logo of two zebras facing each other on their heels with the words REMHOOGTE Wine Estate is placed underneath. Brown chairs, tables, merchandise, plants are just a few of the decor touches in the lobby, where we were greeted by a host who remained with us the whole afternoon and we were each given a glass of wine (the first of many for the afternoon).

I can be a fairly observant person. I emphasise this because my mom always asks me if I’ve noticed that she changed the curtains at my parents’ home, and more times than not, I do not. But when I say I am an observant person, I am usually talking about people. I observe who is in the room as if I would see them again. I pick up people’s mannerisms as we are conversing. I took notice of the couple sitting at the table behind us, both wearing sunglasses. South Africa is very diverse so as I sat with Tony and his friend, I tried to guess where the couple was from. 

I must admit that I didn’t do much research about VUUR before dining, so when we were told we would be sharing a table with a couple and for how long, I knew I was in for an interesting afternoon as I have never experienced that before.

After listening to the host describe the vision of Shaun Scrooby, the chef and owner of the restaurant, we walked down a flight or two of stairs and passed more greenery along the way. A table for five was nicely plated with utensils, plates, wine glasses and blue accent pillows. We passed the first VUUR sign along the way before seeing another sign outside where the magic happens, the kitchen. Before we even took a seat, a tall man walked in and greeted us all, Shaun himself!

Sitting with strangers and sharing a meal sounds all too familiar for me, yet I was nervous. At one point I excused myself from the table to take in the scenery and as I continued to observe my surroundings, I saw a zebra for the first time. Too stunned, I didn’t take my phone out right away to take a photo. Is this what social media philosophers mean by being in the moment? Instead of a live shot eating my low storage, what I have left is a memory of a zebra’s tail swaying as it walks behind a tree, mocking me for waiting too long to take a picture as I finish wiping my camera lens. And even though it won’t make my Instagram story, I have the memory and I was ready to return to the table.

Over about four hours, I was let into the lives of strangers and they into mine. This is the power of food, the act of dining and digesting, conversing while experiencing culinary genius. The sommelier, Leeroy Sekeramayi, was on his first day on the job and he was invited into our conversation and shared with me that he felt as if he were also a guest. 

The first course that arrived on our plate was a salted bone marrow sourdough bread roll served in a miniature pan with a plate of jam and black garlic butter. The toasted appearance was no match for the butter knife, the bread effortlessly separated and paired beautifully with the wine, Free To Be Riesling.

The second course was a fish that I thought was similar to salmon (it was Cape Point yellowtail), cabbage and orange caviar. I have never craved caviar until now. The sautéed cabbage would make even a non-vegetable lover want to order more! It was paired with Remhoogte’s Honeybush chenin blanc wine. 

The next treat was a palate cleanser – the hint of lemon paired with the cocktail was light and made room for the next plates. Here comes more wine. 

Even if you are not a chef, Shaun does an excellent job of allowing the most inexperienced cook feel his excitement for food through opening their palates with exquisite pairings. As a pescatarian, I appreciated the effort put into my plate presentation.

My vegetarian version of tartare and string beans plated over curry made me feel “seen” as a diner. 

The main course that I had was crayfish, cauliflower, pickled red onion and a side of fries. Needless to say, I was quiet the whole meal. Oh, did I mention there was wine?

Our last course was a dessert, a slice of Basque cheesecake tart with burnt hay ice cream on top with a crumble and caramelised base. By the end of all courses hunger was satisfied and I can speak for myself when I say I left with a piece of everyone. 

I’ll leave you with one more braai story (as you can see, I too have an appreciation for braai culture). The man sitting to the left of me was an Afrikaans man who has lived in Scotland and visits Spain with his Spanish wife every so often. 

He shared with the table that he would often put on his coat and hat to braai even during the cold in Scotland while his Scottish peers watched in admiration. That is braai culture – the love for the grill no matter the weather or condition. 

Now I know why South Africans love braaing so much. DM

VUUR and VUUR Goose Island, Remhoogte | 083 600 4050 | mytable@vuurrestaurant.com | The experience at VUUR consists of a seven-course tasting menu that is paired with six Remhoogte Wine Estate wines at R2,450 per person.

Wild Peacock Fine Food Merchants, 16 Stoffel Smit Street, Plankenbrug, Stellenbosch |  https://wildpeacock.co.za | 021 801 3663/4/5.