Throwback Thursday: Spaghetti aglio e olio e peperoncino

A man called Nino had a ristorante called Nino’s in Burg Street, Cape Town, in the 1980s, across the road from The Cape Times. He introduced us to a Neapolitan speciality which he adored and loved to share. It was spaghetti aglio e olio e peperoncino and, though there were chilli flakes in it, it was really all about the garlic.

This was the dish that taught me that a pasta dish does not have to have a slurry of sauce, but can be better with only a slim layer, more of a coating than a sauce. The spaghetti is enhanced, rather than swamped.

Nino kept jars of garlic cloves in olive oil in his fridge, and loved to dare his customers to tuck into it raw, which I did on occasion.

The base dish is spaghetti aglio e olio, without the red pepper or chilli flakes. Aglio e olio e peperoncino is a variation of the original. But Nino made his with fresh red chillies, very finely chopped.

For spaghetti aglio e olio, thin slivers of garlic are very gently simmered (more like steeped) in plenty of good quality extra virgin olive oil for their flavour to infuse the oil thoroughly. This is tossed through cooked, al dente spaghetti and served with finely chopped parsley. For spaghetti aglio e olio e peperoncino, red pepper flakes (more traditionally) or chilli flakes (for the more adventurous) are added along with the garlic, then served in the same way. Parmesan can be grated on top, optionally. A little of the pasta water can be added to the sauce to make it a little more substantial. If doing so, simmer the sauce for a few minutes for a little emulsification to take place. I use salt and black pepper too, although it packs enough flavour to go without them, arguably.

I make a version of it in which I also use lemon juice. I swear it is worth adding. However, if you want the pure version, simply leave the lemon juice out. I also used fresh red chillies, but use dried flakes if you prefer, for a more traditional version.

Wikipedia tells us that an earlier incarnation of the dish was called Vermicelli alla Borbonica from which it evolved into the modern dish.

So, purists, don’t fret: just leave out the lemon juice, which is entirely my own variation on the dish. Dyed-in-the-wool purists may want to leave the chilli flakes out too.

(Serves 2)

Ingredients

500 g spaghetti, cooked al dente and drained, reserving 2 ladles of pasta water (optionally)

⅔ cup extra virgin olive oil

8 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thinly

2 red chillies, seeded and finely chopped (or 1 heaped tsp red chilli or red pepper flakes)

Juice of 1 lemon, strained

Salt and black pepper to taste

2 ladles pasta water (optional)

Parsley, chopped

Grated parmesan (optional)

Method

Pour the olive oil into a saucepan and add the garlic and chilli. Bring to a simmer and cook very gently for five minutes, barely simmering at all. You don’t want the garlic to brown; you only want to infuse the oil. Add the lemon juice and continue cooking at a gentle simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper.

Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti until al dente and drain, after (optionally) first removing 2 ladlefuls of pasta water and adding it to the sauce. (If doing so, cook the sauce, stirring, for about two minutes more).

Toss the sauce through the pasta and serve garnished with chopped parsley. If you like, top with grated parmesan. DM

Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.

This dish is photographed in a pasta bowl by Mervyn Gers Ceramics.