Escape in Northern Cape
The sea cowboys and diamond divers of Port Nolloth
For those looking for juicy stories surrounding the discovery of diamonds, the Northern Cape seaside village of Port Nolloth is just the ticket.
As you drift off to sleep in your beachfront cottage, you hear the distant tinkle of a bell somewhere out there in the mists of Port Nolloth. And when those mists congeal into a dense fog that rolls in from the sea, you have what is known by locals as the malmokkie.
For regular visitors to this part of Namaqualand and into the Richtersveld, the buoy bell of Port Nolloth has become a familiar, welcoming sound. It guides diamond boats and fishing vessels into the harbour that once bustled amid the copper boom of northern Namaqualand.
Many freighters have come to grief on the reefs of this region.
The location of this port originally bore the name Aukwatowa, linked to a legend of “where the water took away the old man”. It was later called Robbe Baai (Seal Bay) and then renamed in honour of the settlement surveyor, Captain MS Nolloth.
Copper ore was mined in the interior around Okiep, and eventually transported 154km by narrow gauge rail to Port Nolloth, followed by a difficult loading procedure. Ore-carrying ships later grew in size, and loading from Port Nolloth harbour was abandoned. Okiep then sent its copper ore south by truck to link up with the rail system at Bitterfontein.
Port Nolloth slumped for a couple of decades until alluvial diamonds were discovered in 1926. Since then, the story of Port Nolloth is heavily laced in diamond legends – which adds to the attraction of this seaside village.
Small-scale diamond diving still takes place from the various boats you see bobbing at anchor in the port, and fishermen head out when the weather is good, in search of crayfish – also known as rock lobster.
Along with the nearby McDougal’s Bay, Port Nolloth has become a popular holiday destination for travellers looking for a remote place with a fascinating history, or adventurers wanting a springboard to their journey into the Richtersveld. They also go on day trips from Port Nolloth to Lekkersing to meet the local Richtersvelders.
For an insight into this part of the world, there is no better starting place than the Port Nolloth Museum run by George Moyses, a colourful veteran of the local diamond diving fraternity.
In the spring, Namaqua blooms surround Port Nolloth and the village is alive with the buzz of “flower tourists” enjoying the blaze of colour that lights up the Diamond Coast.
Where to stay
Bedrock Lodge Cottages & Museum: Tel: 027 851 8865 or 082 259 8865
Richtersveld Experience: 072 543 2132
The Beach House Self-cater Cottage: 074 107 2422
Scotia Inn Hotel & Restaurant: 027 851 8353 or 027 851 8232
Nemo’s Restaurant: 079 717 1871
Anita’s Tavern: 084 726 7092
Vespetti Restaurant: 027 851 7843. DM/ ML
For an insider’s view on life in the Karoo, get the three-book special of Karoo Roads I, Karoo Roads II and Moving to the Platteland – Life in Small Town South Africa by Julienne du Toit and Chris Marais for only R720, including courier costs in South Africa. For more details, contact Julie at [email protected]; for more information, contact the Northern Cape Tourism Authority.
In case you missed it, also read Carnarvon: A Karoo town with ears on the universe
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