Executive chef Kerry Kilpin is at the helm of the two restaurants at the Constantia wine farm Steenberg – from refined contemporary dining at Tryn to tapas at Bistro Sixteen82.

Breakfast for hotel guests at Steenberg is at the newly-revamped and relaunched Tryn, named in honour of the estate’s first owner, Catharina Ras – fondly known as Tryn. It includes a three-tiered cake stand of pastries, fruit, charcuterie and so on, typical of a Continental brekkie, as well as a hot dish of your choice.

I chose the “traditional” omelette with grilled bacon, cheese and tomato with a vineyard view on the side, while I chatted to executive chef Kerry Kilpin. Not all omelettes are created equal, not by a long shot. This was one of the better ones, filled to oozing overflowing with glorious melted cheese. This bountiful serving is indicative of Kilpin’s food philosophy when it comes to the two restaurants she runs on the farm.

Kilpin came to Steenberg when she joined Bistro Sixteen82 in November 2014. The bistro serves breakfast and lunch (à la carte as well as daily specials in bistro style), and tapas in the evenings until 8.30pm. These are larger than one might generally expect; I had three and they made a sufficient meal.

Pork belly tapas at Bistro Sixteen82. Photo: Supplied

Pete Goffe-Wood told me one day over lunch that the first and last mouthfuls are the most important. Such a wise man. Which is why I was in a state with my pork belly, ponzu fish and white anchovies and broccoli with Caesar dressing – I couldn’t decide which one would take the honours of the final taste. First World problems, I have them.

In July 2018, Steenberg asked Kilpin (not for the first time) to come on board at what was then still Catharina’s, the estate’s fine dining restaurant. “But I was having a baby,” says Kilpin. “I was due on August 2 but Alex was born on July 27, so I didn’t really start until December.”

Ethically sourced fish salad with tender greens, citrus, mange tout, sprouts, ginger and kalamansi vinaigrette, aioli. Photo: Supplied

At the same time, the decision was taken to redo the restaurant after 21 years. It reopened in spring 2019 under the name of Tryn, with a bold, modern new look. The main dining room has textured walls and golden mustard velvet chairs, which contrast with the jade accents. This deep colour is picked up again in the private dining area, while ruby continues the jewel hues in smaller dining nooks. A large terrace overlooks the vineyards.

Catharina Ras has a story of which I never grow weary. A 22-year-old widow, she sailed over from the Netherlands, alone, dressed as a man, arriving in the Cape about 10 years after Van Riebeeck. “Catharina soon found herself a companion, Hans Ras – a soldier and Freeburgher with a house on the Liesbeek River,” writes Clifford Roberts.

“The account of their wedding, however, would set the dramatic tone for Catharina’s life: ‘Two wagons left the ceremony, with the bride and groom in one and the guests in the other. Lit from within by good Cape wine and overcome, no doubt, by the spirit of the occasion, the drivers decided to race one another back to Rondebosch. While the guests clung fearfully to their seats, praying to heaven with truly Protestant fervour, the wagons vied for position and as the road was rough and narrow, a collision soon occurred.

Lamb rack with pumpkin purée, shimeji, English spinach, onion petals, lemon and rosemary jus at Tryn. Photo: Supplied

“Enraged at this conduct on his wedding day, the bridegroom jumped down from his seat and soon became entangled in a fight, receiving a knife thrust, which almost proved fatal – the weapon breaking in two between his ribs.

“He survived this incident and lived to father several children, but came to an unfortunate end when he was killed by a lion. The year was 1671.”

Legend has it that when Catharina heard the news, she grabbed a gun, jumped onto her horse, and tracked down and killed the lion.

Savoury dessert at Tryn – Textures Of Boerenkaas with onion soil, walnut and cumin brittle, spekboom chutney. Photo: Supplied

Catharina clocked up five husbands, three of whom “succumbed to the wild, African landscape in a series of unfortunate mishaps”. Tryn leased the land at the foot of the Stone Mountain (Steenberg) from Governor Simon van der Stel in 1682 and transformed it into a flourishing farm with her fresh produce receiving particular praise.

When commissionaire Baron van Rheede visited the farm, he later remarked she was a fiercely independent woman, “riding bare-back like an Indian and her children resembling Brazilian cannibals!”

This fierce and feisty founder of Steenberg is remembered in the restaurant as well as two signature wines dedicated to her: the flagship red blend, Catharina, and the prestige cuvée, Lady R Méthode Cap Classique, both deliciously fitting tributes.

While Catharina’s (the restaurant) was transforming into Tryn, Kilpin was on maternity leave but still very much involved and regularly on-site.

“So I wasn’t completely disconnected. During that time, we were having meetings about the changes and the hotel revamp was always planned. It made sense that Catharina’s have its revamp at the same time. It was always a big thing, that the two would happen simultaneously.”

Kilpin knew she was planning to get pregnant so she was already putting things in place to ensure the smooth running of the bistro before taking some time off. “It was a two-year plan to get the team happy the bistro wasn’t going to suffer,” she says.

Steenberg’s executive chef Kerry Kilpin. Photo: Supplied

Having agreed to take on Tryn as well, Kilpin changed the whole menu before she left. “It was at least my food while I was away. It had to be – my name was going to be connected to it. When I came back it was very much overseeing both restaurants, moving from one to the other. It all worked out really well.”

With one creative brain behind both restaurants, the idea was to develop menus that were individual but always within Kilpin’s style, which is strongly influenced by her travels – Thailand informing the Asian flavours, and Barcelona inspiring the tapas.

“I needed to find a way to make sure they were different but still me,” she says. “The big thing was, the bistro is very much, well, bistro style. It’s a home feel with some of the food, it’s what I want to eat. At Tryn I wanted it to be delicious food but a bit more refined, a little more delicate. The first thing that had to go was my 59ml ladle of sauce at the bistro, to become a 39ml!” she laughs.

Main dining room at Tryn. Photo: Supplied

“I still want it to feel like a generous plate of food. Eating out has become really expensive so there needs to be value in what you get on your plate. You need to feel full. I’m happy to pay R250 or R270 for my plate of food but I don’t want to leave hungry after that. We all work way too hard for our money.”

The bar and lounge at Tryn. Photo: Supplied

This is what is so apparent in Kilpin’s dishes, across the menus at both restaurants. It was the abundance of soft gooey cheese squishing out my omelette that reminded me to ask Kilpin about the dessert I’d had at Tryn previously, which had me moaning in ecstasy. It’s called Textures of Boerenkaas.

Boerenkaas is probably my favourite cheese at the moment (without the cumin, thank you very much), and is popping up on menus all over the place these days. It’s full of flavour and is accessible to most palates, unlike blue cheese or washed-rind cheeses. Kilpin’s inspiration was a certain creamy cheese spread but she didn’t know how to make it. “Getting that right was where it began,” she says. “Most people like Boerenkaas so it was an obvious choice. It also has so many different ages, so you can play with that as well as textures; I like lots of textures. We use two month, six month and 12 month.”

The savoury dessert comprises the smooth “Melrose” element with its childhood nostalgia but all grown up and sophisticated, cheese crumble, and a mini twice-baked soufflé. It’s served with onion soil and spekboom chutney. “It’s fun and little bit old fashioned,” says Kilpin. “I don’t see myself as a trendsetter. I like to cook what is classic but with a twist on it. Soufflé is so old school but people love it.

“I want people to enjoy their meal and be happy.” DM

For more information, Steenberg Farm