This is what they have made for decades to fill one of Durban’s classiest bunnies.

In the old days, before the Umgeni riverside in this area became arguably the busiest and noisiest street in town, the Britannia was a genteel watering hole, serving pink gins to white colonials on the front veranda, and beer and spirits to black customers through hatches at the back.

Since 1983 the Brits has been owned by the Moodley family. Young Linkey Moodley, then just graduated with a Masters (Commerce) degree from the University of Natal, borrowed money to invest in the hotel; he paid off the loan in five years.

Now you will find the Thirsty Horse sports pub with big screens, a revamped restaurant lit by vast chandeliers (“snazzy with ambience”), a tote and Tattersalls for betting-mad locals, and most lately, a new multi-storey conference centre and function rooms. Linkey has been busy. But it is the Brits’ food which made its reputation, it is still an essential ingredient in the business.

Linkey’s grandmother was an “exquisite” cook; his mother, queen of the kitchen for 20 years, no less accomplished. Britannia’s reputation for stellar Durban Indian dishes was established by them, and the hotel’s masalas, while no longer made on site, are still ground to their special recipe (“secret,” says Linkey, “protected, just like Kentucky”).

Everything comes to the table covered with clear plastic domes. And there are still women in pole positions: the impeccable kitchens are managed by Rebecca Naidoo. Shamla Naidoo runs the entire hotel.

The Britannia Hotel’s Mutton Curry Bunny Chow

100ml oil

1 large onion, chopped

Quarter teaspoon turmeric

1 bay leaf

3 small cinnamon sticks

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

4 Tbsp mixed masala

2 teaspoons ginger and garlic paste

1 medium tomato, chopped

500g mutton, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 sprig curry leaves

2 teaspoons salt

Water

6 even-sized, soft-cooking potatoes

3 sprigs fresh dhania/coriander, chopped

Heat oil. Add onion, turmeric, bay leaf, cinnamon, fennel seeds. Fry for a few seconds, until onion softens. Add masala, ginger and garlic, allow to cook for a few seconds but take care not to burn. Add tomato. When almost cooked stir in meat, allow to sauté. Add curry leaves, salt and water to cover. Bring to a boil then lower heat to moderate, and cover. Cook 20-25 minutes, then add potatoes. Continue cooking until meat is tender, and potatoes are soft. Spoon into bunnies (quarter loaves of hollowed-out white bread). Or bowls if you prefer. Garnish with dhania. DM

This recipe is from Erica Platter and Clinton Friedman’s Durban Curry: So much of flavour. Their second Durban curry book: Durban Curry, Up 2 Date, is to be published soon. Their first, Durban Curry, reprinted three times and now sold out, won several 2015 World Gourmand Foodbook awards, including Best SA book, and Runner-up to Best in the World