Tough economic conditions, coupled with load shedding, have seen a slowdown in retail (walk through your local shopping centre if you need further convincing) and yet there has been a quiet revolution in Jozi’s food scene when it comes to haute cuisine.

Two restaurants, which are part of this epicurean trend, can be found in Melville, which for years has been a microcosm of our rainbow nation.

The first to open, 18 months ago, is NCW, named after its owner chef Ence Willemse, while the newest kid of the block is the quaint and quirky La Petite Maison which houses 20 diners in what was originally a dilapidated hair salon at the top of Seventh Street.

NCW is housed in a magnificent and lovingly restored Edwardian building. Willemse – who previously worked at Overture in Stellenbosch – even gave up cooking for a while to work as a plumber to earn extra capital for his ambitious project.

At the back Ofentse Mathope. Left front: Philip Potgieter and Ence Willemse (right)

Each month this food artist presents a menu inspired by another artist whose work is hung in NCW’s airy spaces. The most recent was John Vusi Mfupi, whose collages and vibrant colours inspired a five-course tasting menu paired with specially chosen wines.

Upon arrival, Willemse playfully presents his version of “fish and chips” – ramen-wrapped sardines.

There’s a riot of colour and texture – from the gravadlax of salmon, avo and carrot to the black charcoal gnocchi which stands in strong contrast to the red Napolitana sauce and green basil leaves. If I have one criticism, I am not convinced this last dish belongs in a gourmet line-up. It is delicious but it isn’t perhaps special enough.

Black gnocchi at NCW

Chef Massimo Bottura of Modena’s Osteria Francescana may have pasta on his menu, but his ode to the crunchy part of the lasagne gives the diner the experience and emotion of something bigger.

NCW’s gravadlax of salon avocado and carrot

For me the stand-out was the smoked feta and truffle mosaic with ice cream softly melting once the spinach soup is poured over it, releasing wonderful aromas and flavours. A memorable and gorgeously decadent and delicious dish.

Smoked feta and truffle mosaic

The restaurant offers concise and full degustation menus at R425 (R645 with wine) and R615 (R925 with wine) respectively.

A few blocks away, chefs Tyeya Ngxola and Timothy Stewart have opened La Petite Maison. It is clearly a project of love for the two who, although they both trained at Centurion’s Prue Leith Chef’s Academy, met at Parma’s Alma: La Scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana.

Tyeya Ngxola, left, and Timothy Stewart have opened La Petite Maison

They have some incredible work experience between them, from stints at Cape Town’s fine dining temples The Test Kitchen and The Greenhouse to a number of Michelin-starred Italian eateries including La Fiorida and Antica Corte Pallavicina.

The space is tiny and electric – inky blue walls show off burnt orange velvet banquettes and the red kitchen counter.

The food Tyeya and Tim serve may be fit for a gourmand, but their menu is a map of South Africa, each one of the three, five or seven dinner courses inspired by a different area in the country, with the emphasis on seasonality and provenance.

It begins in the Kalahari of the Northern Cape with a dish inspired by what the local Khoi San people do – and ends in Ficksburg in the southern Free State.

You can always feel the passion that the two put into the food – from the squid-ink risotto served with melt-in-the-mouth calamari and Cape Malay spiced prawns to the ostrich tartare.

Magaliesberg pork belly

The stand-out here for me was the Magaliesberg pork belly with its snap, crackle and pop crackling and succulent meat accompanied by a rich demi-glace sauce and sweet figs.

Hogsback duck breast

The Hogsback duck breast, with its crisp skin, was matched perfectly with its accompanying five spiced plums and shimeji and shiitake mushrooms, but was slightly overcooked, although to be fair, my dining companions had pinker versions.

The meal ends on a sweet note with raspberry and Ficksburg cherry with dark and white chocolate spheres, topped with pistachios.

Ficksburg cherry with dark and white chocolate spheres, topped with pistachios

The pair have sourced small production boutique wines to pair with their dishes.

Three courses without wine costs R400 (R550 with wine); five courses R550 (R800 with wine) and the recommended seven-course tasting menu R750 (R1,100 with wine).

Some may say that the owners of NCW and La Petite Maison are brave – even foolhardy – to open high-end establishments in this economic climate. However, their passion shines through in their food.

And Gauteng – with its growing number of gourmet restaurants such as Epicure, Black Bamboo and Le Fermier – can now proudly say it has its own Top 10 fine dining eateries worthy of recognition and support. DM

NCW, 10th Street, off 46 Main Road, Melville. Tel: 011 482 1998.

La Petite Maison, 1 7th Street, Melville. Tel: 010 593 7986.